Pensacola Fishing Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday started to get theengine ready.

I bought the boat used last year with 60 hours, figure I should check things out a little more, this spring.

Whenremoving the engine anodes I found theoneson head being more corroded, with the top one being the most corroded(one on the exhaust port being the least corroded). But all three of the rubber grommetwere deteriorating. One grommet/sealwas leaking (the exhaust anode),thatcause corrosionto one of the bolts as well as thecap,this was not visible before removing the cap with anode (did not remove anode from cap).

Also check the poppet (pressure control valve) and the rubber grommet for it was deterirating as well.

Re-used the anodes; The worst anode may have had 10% lost after cleaning.

After changing the thermostat and seeing how corroded it wasI am questiong thefactory flush system.

My other boats the thermostats were never this corroded and I used the ear muff for them. This engine, the head top anode was much worst than thelower anode.

Thismake me think thefactory flushing system maynot bedoing as good asusing the muffs and warming the engine up until the thermostat open.

By using the muffsI wouldknow the thermostat, it's output housingwould have been flushed.With the factoryflush systemI am not surethe upper part of the engine, thermostat and housingarebeing flushed.
 

· Registered
2007 Century 2200
Joined
·
4,394 Posts
Actually the flush fitting on the engine under normal use is a good flush,, should it be the onlyway it is flushed , no,,, it needs to reach normal operating temp...I actually prefer both attachments or a bucket of water..what i see here in your title, is a 6 year old motor with 100 hours on it,,, when an engine sits for long periods of time it tends to corrode,, the longer it sits the more it corrodes,, just having water flow through it at regular intervals and at normal operating temp. will slow the corrosion down.. just sitting there dry it will corrode... if you need parts for this i would be glad to supply them for you,, being a forum member there will be a discount as well... hope this helps..
 

· Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Sequoiha (2/24/2010)Actually the flush fitting on the engine under normal use is a good flush,, should it be the onlyway it is flushed , no,,, it needs to reach normal operating temp...I actually prefer both attachments or a bucket of water..what i see here in your title, is a 6 year old motor with 100 hours on it,,, when an engine sits for long periods of time it tends to corrode,, the longer it sits the more it corrodes,, just having water flow through it at regular intervals and at normal operating temp. will slow the corrosion down.. just sitting there dry it will corrode... if you need parts for this i would be glad to supply them for you,, being a forum member there will be a discount as well... hope this helps..
So just to clarify, are you saying that in addition to the factory flush, you recommend the muff flush, or the muff flush only?
 

· Registered
2007 Century 2200
Joined
·
4,394 Posts
The hose attachment was designed for the weekend in the water at the dock with the engine trimmed up temporary flush, not the end of a fishing trip let it set up 2 weeks flush, however if you let the water run for 20 minutes or so then start the motor, let it idle for another 5, that is as good a flush as you will get, and a bucket is always better.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top