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You can not cut the hose from the transom on an Alpha Drive as the illustration suggestsand run the motor.

Forinboards, Bravos, and Volvos, Perko makes a flush adapter that installs in line before the raw water pump. You connect a garden hose to it and flush your motor. You can not winterize with it though because it requires pressure to operate the check valves.
 

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sosmarine (1/2/2008)You can not cut the hose from the transom on an Alpha Drive as the illustration suggestsand run the motor.

Forinboards, Bravos, and Volvos, Perko makes a flush adapter that installs in line before the raw water pump. You connect a garden hose to it and flush your motor. You can not winterize with it though because it requires pressure to operate the check valves.
Using the kit I pictured, you still use a water-hose, which should give more then enough pressure..correct?? I still like the draining method best tho.
 

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With the Perko flusher the kit will not work. I say this from personal experience.

Draining is ok, but you have to make sure you actually get the water out. I have had customers swear they drained their motors and they cracked. Come to fine out they plugged the plug, but due to sediment in the block the water did not drain. Also, draining allows for corrosion. I have a tank with anti freeze in it that I run the motor over. This get the anti freeze in completely and not only protects against freezing, but also helps fight corrosion.
 

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OK guys, how do you tell if you cracked the block or freeze plugs??There is no water in my oil but my motor's not turning. Thanks-jared
 

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It's rare that a frozen block would keep your motor from turning over, especially after it warms up and thaws out. I would first check your battery and starter. A small block V8Chevy motor, typically, will crack on the outside justbelowthe head. This will cause in leak once the motor gets to operating temp. A V6 Chevy, typically, will crack on the inside just below the head inside the lifter valley. This too will leak at operating temp, but you wont see it. After running a while you will have milky looking oil.
 

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jared (1/7/2008)thanks SOS--what about a 302 ford?
I have never seen a frozen motor not crank/turn over. Even with a frozen water pump the motor should at least turn over if the electrical components are up to snuff (so long as you don't have a cylinder full of water). If you are sure ALL electrical is good, pull plugs and spin over.As far as a cracked block the problem will come to light either 1. Water in oil (easy to spot, milky oil)..2. Water seeps into the cylinders (super clean plugs after running)..3. Water leaking out of block (may be the hardest to see). Casting plugs (freeze plugs) don't ALWAYS pop out, but usually do.

I'd put oddsthat theproblem is your electrical to start with.

How did you come to the remote possibility of a frozen engine to start with. Was it in fact that cold for that long while you were out of town. I know it was here in Calera, AL
 

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Bill (1/18/2008)If you have an outboard, what should you do to protect it from the cold?
Trim the motor all the way down so water doesnt' collect in the prop housing and freeze. If for some reason it wont go down then pour some RV anti freeze in the housing.
 

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On my mercruiser powered boats I have always protected them from freezing by putting anti freeze into the block rether than pulling plugs and draining all the various places you have to drain each time the temp drops for a couple of days. then deciding not to use the boat because of all of the trouble that it is to reinstall all of the plugs each time, only to repeat the whole process in a couple of weeks when the temp drops again. Some one may say that this is not safe to do this and I would say to them "Then do not do it" , But I have never had a problem in doing this and I Can use my boat at any time and have it protected again in a short time.

I took a plastic 55 gallon drum and cut it in half lengthwise with a recip. saw, then slide this tub under the back of boat ( lengthwise, not side to side so that exhaust water falls back into tub)and thenlower outdrive into the tub.Then run motor for 10 -15 mins on the ear muffs on the water hose to let motor reach operating temp so that the thermostat is open.( during this run I figure out where I am loosing water due to splashing and figure out where to stuff rags to catch it so it drips into tub)

Then I shut everything down and empty the tub and pour 2 gallons of anti-freeze into the empty tub. I rigged up a small builge pump with a sort section of hose to connect to the ear muffs to circulate the anti-freeze to the muffs and lower into one end of the tub.( it helps to slightly raise other end of tub)

The rest is obivious I restart the motor and circulate the yellow stuff untill the exhaust water dumping back into the tub is good and yellow. this is where it is important that you stopped your leaks to keep this liquid gold off the ground.

Lastly I shut everything down and use the pump to transfer what is left of my now deluted a/f into a five gallon bucket with lid to use again next time , just add some new a/f.

This sounds like a lot of effort, but once you get every thing set up just keep it all together as a winterizing kit and it gets easier to do each time. I have also used it on my waverunner and my 40 HP johnson outboard ,but I really dont think that they hold water like a mercruiser does......................Hope this helps someone, DENNIS
 

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Bill,

I have a outboard motor and I covered it with a moving blanket and a plastic tarp over that. I also have it cranked up almost as high as it will go to keep the water draining. That tarp also covered the exposed hoses.

Just as a reminder if your flushing the antifreeze through the motor, keep the pets away or they will be poisoned if they ingest it.

Thank goodness it is suppose to warm up this week but rain.
 
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