Pensacola Fishing Forum banner

21 - 40 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
InshoreCommander (2/2/2010)It'd be easier to just bring mine by and have you "fix" all of the problems on my 3 year old trailer.


We do perform repairs. Or if you are a DIY'er, we have access to parts. Feel free to contact us or come by our shop. We are located in the Avalon Industrial Park off Avalon Blvd in Milton, FL. 1st building on the left.



850-723-0693
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Captain DP (2/2/2010)In the last 3 years I have had an Ameritrial, Starline, and a magictilt.



The ameritrail was probably the worst, I had to replace every light, wire and brakeson it in about a year.



The starline I didn't keep long but the person I sold it to has recently had issues. I'm sure he will chime in soon.



The magictilt has been the best I have only replaced one light, aground connection and they sent me a set of lug nuts b/c the originals rusted (free).



As far as suggestions: I think it would be a great idea to keep all the ground wires run back to the tounge of the trailer so they stay out of the saltwater "Most" of the time.




Thanks for your response. I didn't see the Starline owner chime in, but we welcome the opportunity to discuss any issues they may be up against.



That was kind of MagicTilt to replace your lug nuts, just keep in mind that those nuts cost them less than $1 plus shipping.



We like the suggestion on the ground wires. We plan to see how this change may impact our costs for the extra material and labor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
455 Posts
hardyboy (2/3/2010)
Captain DP (2/2/2010)In the last 3 years I have had an Ameritrial, Starline, and a magictilt.

The ameritrail was probably the worst, I had to replace every light, wire and brakeson it in about a year.

The starline I didn't keep long but the person I sold it to has recently had issues. I'm sure he will chime in soon.

The magictilt has been the best I have only replaced one light, aground connection and they sent me a set of lug nuts b/c the originals rusted (free).

As far as suggestions: I think it would be a great idea to keep all the ground wires run back to the tounge of the trailer so they stay out of the saltwater "Most" of the time.

Thanks for your response. I didn't see the Starline owner chime in, but we welcome the opportunity to discuss any issues they may be up against.

That was kind of MagicTilt to replace your lug nuts, just keep in mind that those nuts cost them less than $1 plus shipping.

We like the suggestion on the ground wires. We plan to see how this change may impact our costs for the extra material and labor.
It was fisheye48, he didn't give any detail, just talked about customer service.

The thing about the lug nuts was I originally contacted themto buy a set. Cost never was an issue. It's just good customer service. That $25 bucks after shipping may have sold him another trailer in the near future.

I hope you decide to do the ground wire thing. That just seems smart to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
cuzmondo (2/2/2010)hardyboy,



Kudo's to you for seeking input. As with all things, price is usually a consideration, so the more you can do and include, at a good price/quality point will go a long way toward helping sales and keeping up your reputation.



I feel I have to tell you that my last trailer was an Owen's and Sons. By far the best trailer I've ever owned, or seen bar none. It was an aluminum frame, with torsion axles, and Kodiak discs. It was so great and towed so well that I was interested in buying another when I bought the current boat I own. I priced them and found I could buy an equivalently (sp) made, but smaller trailer for my current boat for about $600 more than I paid for the DHM trailer I ended up buying. The DHM I bought is a decent trailer; it's aluminum, torsion axles with Kodiak discs, and so I thought comparable to the Owen's and Sons, for $600 less, but mainly I didn't have to travel to Tampa to get it. If I had it to do over I wouldn't hesitate to drive to Tampa and pay the additional $600. As I mentioned, the DHM is "decent", but they did cut some corners. For example, the fender supports are flimsy, rather than have a crossmember running the complete width and mounting the fender supports to it, they simply clamped on two short pieces of aluminum tubing to the fram and mounted the fenders to that. Not really a structural problem, but a cheap shortcut. Also, I don't believe they did much of anything to align the axles. All four tires wear excessively on just the inside edges. One trip to the Keys and back (barely) and they're shot. My O & S trailer was towed all over Florida before I got it and after and the tires were like new when I sold it. It was perfectly aligned.


We had never heard of DHM. But in looking up there info, and I could be mistaken, but it appears as if they have been bought out.



For those who don't know... Owens and Sons Marine builds "Aluminum Slide-On" trailers (their decal).



Regarding your DHM trailer... the "smaller trailer" is the culprit behind your inside tire wear, not necessarily alignment. Alignment issues typically impact one tire, not all. All in all, the DHM trailer is undersized for your boat. When we calculate what size trailer your boat needs... it comes down to the size of your boat (weight and length), the fuel capacity in pounds of gasoline, the size of your engine(s), and the weight of our trailer.



Thanks for the kudos. We appreciate your input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
We are working to respond to all of your comments. We appreciate all the input and welcome any more responders who want to get in on the action.



Have a great evening!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
I'm with Bobby. WIRING. I am not nor do I want to be an electrical engineer. My trailer is an 06' and I would rather chew my own leg off than deal with another light out. Every time I move the boat I spend time redoing something. I know I should redo the whole thing, but it would be nice to not buy a 3,000 dollar trailer and have to fix it. Soon as I hook to it, another wire gone to corrosion, and of course with kids ready to go, another quick fix. Feel free to use my trailer as a prototype to any solution you have.



And again a sincere thanks for caring about the customers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
I have an 08magic tilt aluminum trailer. I have had a few minor problems with the brakes and I am experiencing an intermediate ground issue-but may be related to the truck wiring. (I haven't really tried to track it down yet) Only stating here so you can keep these things in mind to make yours better.

I would have loved to see an option for a fixed wash down system (such as http://www.trailerspa.biz/).And, I am sure that it is an option, but a longer tongue (or whatever it would be called) would have been nice too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,650 Posts
We like the suggestion on the ground wires. We plan to see how this change may impact our costs for the extra material and labor.


While on the subject of wiring.



Why can't ya just put a 7pin round male plug on the trailer with brakes?



All my trailers have 7 pin round plugs weither they have brakes or not.



Heres the deal. Trucks come standard with a 7pin round female connector.



So why put a 4 pin flat or a 5 pin flat and then have to go buy a stupid adapter?



It's something else to keep up with and another place to loose a connection.



Just does not make any sense......unless you think that $4 savings [4pin flat to 7pin cost] makes sense for the aggravation. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Your in a tough business, I predict that you have two types of people and probably need to build two types of products. You have the person who wants the boat and considers the trailer a nuisance expense and wants to go as cheep as they can on the trailer. Brings to mind the old saying you want it cheap or you want it good.

Nextrail triple axle- I went cheep and now wish I had it to do over again. I will say that they replaced two bend axles but it took a lot of negotiations to get them to re-imburse me for the axles that I bought locally to replace them. Other than that it was waht I paid for a cheep trailer.

Magic Tilt dual axle- My opinion a fairly cheep trailer that seems to market mostly to dealers and of course they want ti cheep so they it does not hamper a sell of a new boat. The 1988 that I am still running is just that still running so I guess I got a good one. When I completely refurbed it 2 years ago I did find a lot of mix matched parts on it, different sized bolts etc.

Starline dual axle- THis is what is under the last boat that I bought and so far I am pleased with it with the exception that I feel like the fender braces need to be beefed up, mine need some work and they chatter like hell going down the road, other than that a good trailer so far.

Now that I have gotten older and realize that the trailer is about the most important part of the package here are my suggestions. For saltwater, insist on disc over drum brakes and while your at it make it electric over hydraulic. All stainless steel harware, sparetire and hub. On the electrical, I would like to see detatchable brake lights with quick connects on the wiring harness. I would have no problems at all removing my lights before I backed them into the salt water. Grease filled connectors on any all all splices on the wiring harness. Carpet glued, not stapled onto bunks. From a person who launches and loads a boat by himself most of the time, a step on the front of the trailer to make climbing out of the boat from the bow easier. Beef up the tongue stand and but an extra wide pad on it for those near misses.

Most importantly honesty and good customer service.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,650 Posts
For saltwater, insist on disc over drum brakes


For the money. Kodiak brakes with Cad plated rotors and stainless calipers is the best most economical package.



Tie Down brand disc brakes have been the Red Headed step child for a long time and I know that Hi Tech dropped them many years ago due to problems.



I also heard that Tie Down revamped their product to build a better product. Problem is they already craped in their mess kit and no one wants to try them again, at least the people in the know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Myself and my family have owned several brands of trailers in the past. Loadmaster, Magic Tilt, etc... and now I own a starline. Most of the problems we have faced over the years most likely come down to maintenance or lack there of. We have learned a lot about keeping them up. The Starline is as good as any others if not better. I have had it for 4 years now and in the last year I replaced the brakes, 1 hub, and the lights. In my opinion that is as good as it gets when you are repeatedly dunking something in salt water. My favorite thing about my current trailer is the aluminum bunks. There is no wood at all and I do not have to and will not ever have to replace any carpet on the bunks. The rubber skids on the bunks look like new so I do not see the need to replace them in the near future either.

Some ideas I have had in the past:

Come up with something different than a roller for the front of the boat. They have always just mushed down and are always leaving marks on the front of boats. I doubt they really "roll" and serve any purpose except as a stop.

Provide a tool box on the front to keep jacks, grease guns, wheel chocks (sp?), etc in.

There has to be a system that could run off of the trailer wiring and power a small water pump. A small tank could be mounted in the tool box that has fresh water in it and the trailer could be rinsed after launching the boat and after loading the boat. This is not available at most boat ramps and I can see how leaving the trailer sit all day while fishing after being dunked is probably not good.

Overall, I consider the quality of the Starline to be as good or better than any other manuf. The fact that this is a local business is an added bonus as well.

Thanks for your efforts

PJ Mcleod
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
lobsterman (2/2/2010)I have a loadmaster trailer dual axle and I absolutely, possitively hate the mickey mouse oil fill axle caps. I have had problems with mybearings and seals more times than I can count. I need to replace 2 spindles and hubs right now as we speak, but they won't be that kind for sure.


Agreed. Oil fill axle caps are a nightmare. We utilize Posi-Lube hubs. Yes, they have a rubber grease cap and have to be maintained, but a much better option that oil baths.



Bearings are hard. Honestly, we can only warrant this component for 30 days, as this is one of the main components of a trailer, in addition to the brakes, that REQUIRE maintenance to continue to work appropriately. For those who don't know... "Grease keeps the trailer bearings lubricated and works as a coolant against heat caused by friction. A rubber-lipped seal helps to hold all the grease in and the dust and water out. Boat trailers pose the most risk on both counts due to the rapid cooling that takes place when their wheels are submerged. The air inside the wheel hub contracts, creating a vacuum. The vacuum can then suck in water and dust from outside. If water makes its way in there with the bearings, it's only a matter of time until corrosion and rust join the fun."



Also from the "How it Works" website...

"If you ever have to open up a wheel hub on a trailer, chances are you're going in to either grease the bearings or replace them because you didn't. The key is to make sure the trailer bearings stay greased on your own terms, so you don't find yourself replacing them on the side of the road at an inopportune time."



We have replacement spindles for those who have removable spindles. And we also carry bearing kits if you need to replace yours before this new season ahead of us.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Just_Ducky (2/2/2010)I have a magictilt 2 axle and its all I need. No issues and I didn't buy it new.


You knocked on wood, right. ;)



Seriously, there are many proud MagicTilt Owners out there... and then there are plenty who do have issues.



If you ever find yourself in a jam, or if your MagicTilt finally succumbs to the elements... please consider us when you go to purchase your next trailer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,650 Posts
Come up with something different than a roller for the front of the boat. They have always just mushed down and are always leaving marks on the front of boats. I doubt they really "roll" and serve any purpose except as a stop.


Which one? The one on the winch stand?







Or are you talking about one under the Keel, where this one has a pad?







The pad is notorious for skinning gellcoat off the Keel. The Roller in that spot doesn't skin the gellcoat, but is stil a PITA to load.



Forward Keel bunks take care of this problem and make the boat Soooo much easier to load. I have rerigged several trailers for people by adding forward Keel bunks and they Love them.











There has to be a system that could run off of the trailer wiring and power a small water pump. A small tank could be mounted in the tool box that has fresh water in it and the trailer could be rinsed after launching the boat and after loading the boat. This is not available at most boat ramps and I can see how leaving the trailer sit all day while fishing after being dunked is probably not good.


While this can be done with not a lot of problem, your adding weight to the front of your trailer. [Toung Weight] Water is 8.2lbs per gal.



And another thing. You have launched your boat. You tied it to the dock. How long is it going to sit there in everyone else's way while you play "Wash my trailer"?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
BIGRIGZ (2/2/2010)I like to have tall guide-ons with the lights mounted up high on the guide-on (makes backing the trailer really easy and especially after the trailer drops off the ramp), good spots to anchor straps on the frame, good spot for a spare tire. maybe there's more things I prefer in a trailer.... I'll think....



an underwater light in the center of the trailer would be pretty cool for night loading.....




We can install lights at the tops of the guides; however, it has been our experience that guides are typically the first item that gets "taken out" / damaged on a trailer. And I know that most of your are careful with your boat and trailer... but there are those out there who tend to tear stuff up more quickly than other. Now say you snap the guide in half... or even just take off the top few inches... visualize what happens to the wiring. Needless to say... repair work can become tedious and daunting, for the Owner or for us. But yes, this is an option. We plan to add this our 'Upgrade' package.



We typically deal with larger boats that don't require anchor straps. But we have recently tapped into building trailers for lightweight, flat-bottom boats and this is something we need to consider on these smaller trailers.



On the spare tire... we mount ours onto the side of the winch stand. There are some companies that mount the spare directly off the i-beam near the winch stand. But so far we haven't received any complaints in regards to the current location. Per the other posters, we have just recently started pricing our trailers with the Spare Tire included.



We like the underwater light in the center for night loading. But again, we see this as an item that may get torn up easily. We are looking into this though, in addition to reflective stickers/markers.
 

·
Really Senior Member
Joined
·
485 Posts
X-Shark (2/5/2010)



Forward Keel bunks take care of this problem and make the boat Soooo much easier to load. I have rerigged several trailers for people by adding forward Keel bunks and they Love them.


Absolutely. I have added forward bunks to both of my trailers, my sons, and a friends. All are now totally painless one man drive on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
BBob (2/2/2010)performance 6 wheel



Like:



1-) The aluminum frame



Dislike:



1-)Had to replace all six of the spindles because the retaining nuts were not sealed from salt water and rusted off.



2-) Had to replace the "drum brakes" because I was foolish in thinking that the flush connector on the frame would rinse the salt water from the brakes.



Really Like:



1-) The stainless brakes w/ ceramic disk pads that replaced the drum brakes



2-) Like that the new master cylinder will lock and not allow the trailer to roll backwards when the truck is not in reverse.



3-) The LED trailer lights



Would Like:



1-) Wish I had install a dual wheeled jack so that the tongue could be moved a little left or right when needed.



Billy-Bob


Thanks for your detailed response. For those of you that don't know, Performance Trailers is one of a few Florida trailer companies that actually post their pricing directly on their website. (Thus, you can utilize their numbers for comparison shopping on your next trailer purchase. Note: The prices quoted are sans brakes... you can see what brakes cost us for the material and labor.)



ALUMINUM is the way to go here in the good ole South. But if you are a fresh-water only kind of guy, and want to save some dollars, our friend Eddie English on Hwy 90 specializes in galvanized trailers.



As to the spindles, see my post earlier today. They may have actually been sealed at one point, but dunking a hot-of-the-highway wheel into the cool waters of Florida can cause issues for even the best set-up.



And as you probably learned, drum brakes are a no-no in the boating world. We utilize Kodiak disc brakes and have only experienced a small percentage of issues. Flush connectors are somewhat useless in our opinion. You could rinse your brakes all day, but brakes technically require a rinsing AND lubricating series of events to best maintain them. Brakes, plus the tiniest remnant of salt, with inadequate lubrication is trouble in the making. Just imagine how one piece of salt or sand feels under your fingernail... it bothers you until you dislodge it... and it you jammed it far enough in there... you still feel the stinging hours after has been rinsed free (in theory, that's the rust setting in ;).



Stainless steel brakes is the way to go ideally... but these come with a hefty price tag $$$$. We have had very few customers willing to take this upgrade. But as other posters have noted... sometimes it is better to pay a little more upfront that to deal with the dollars and headaches down the road.



We utilize LED lights, and only LED lights, on our trailers. Great product. We haven't had any issues thus far (knocking on wood).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,720 Posts
Renegade (2/5/2010)Myself and my family have owned several brands of trailers in the past. Loadmaster, Magic Tilt, etc... and now I own a starline. Most of the problems we have faced over the years most likely come down to maintenance or lack there of. We have learned a lot about keeping them up. The Starline is as good as any others if not better. I have had it for 4 years now and in the last year I replaced the brakes, 1 hub, and the lights. In my opinion that is as good as it gets when you are repeatedly dunking something in salt water. My favorite thing about my current trailer is the aluminum bunks. There is no wood at all and I do not have to and will not ever have to replace any carpet on the bunks. The rubber skids on the bunks look like new so I do not see the need to replace them in the near future either.

Some ideas I have had in the past:

Come up with something different than a roller for the front of the boat. They have always just mushed down and are always leaving marks on the front of boats. I doubt they really "roll" and serve any purpose except as a stop.

Provide a tool box on the front to keep jacks, grease guns, wheel chocks (sp?), etc in.

There has to be a system that could run off of the trailer wiring and power a small water pump. A small tank could be mounted in the tool box that has fresh water in it and the trailer could be rinsed after launching the boat and after loading the boat. This is not available at most boat ramps and I can see how leaving the trailer sit all day while fishing after being dunked is probably not good.

Overall, I consider the quality of the Starline to be as good or better than any other manuf. The fact that this is a local business is an added bonus as well.

Thanks for your efforts

PJ Mcleod


My favorite thing about my current trailer is the aluminum bunks...........id like to see a pic of these.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
I've got a Performance trailer on my 19' Cape Horn (<U>FOR SALE</U>). No problems in the 6 yrs I've had it.

Now I've got a Starliner for my other boat, can't even tell that a boat is behind the truck. With it empty I can't even feel it back there.

If Cape Horn is putting them under their boats they have to be good!

IMHO
 
21 - 40 of 61 Posts
Top