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Does anyone know where to pick up a water separator from? Does anybody have any pictures of one installed, was wondering of it was hard to install one?:doh
 

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gasoline or diesel?

Most gasoline 10 micro fuel filters are listed as filter/water seperator.

I would spend a little extra and get a Stain Steel head if you go with the gasoline 10 micro filter/water seperator. They are fairly easy to install, just make sure you have room to remove the filter with a catchpan under it when it time to change the filter. There is a different on some filter/seperator whether it is a Outboard and inboard.
 

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78blacktransam (3/10/2010)Does anyone know where to pick up a water separator from? Does anybody have any pictures of one installed, was wondering of it was hard to install one?:doh


Id love to know individual experiences with different brands
 

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For advice, I would ask Kenny Mann at Emerald Coast Marine. Not only does he sell them, he knows everything there is to know about fuel, water, and especially Ethanol and has done seminars on the issues. PM Sequoia. I think I spelled that right
 

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Another Bump for Kenny at Emerald Coast Marine, I just changed my separator brackets from cast to stainless, and Kenny was by far the cheapest, and he can get the stuff quick. As for a pic, go to youtube and search for fuel water separator or something along that line.
 

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Choppedliver---Have been using racor filters religiously since 1994 and have not had a problem.....Prolly have close to8500 hrs of running since then.......The racors have worked great....

George
 

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Buy the stainless headed mount. The alum ones look like crap in a few years.
 

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This is the setup I built for my 22' CC



I used one old Power Products filter head that I bead blasted and painted and one new Sierra head with Sierra 18-7945 ten micron filters @ $5.00. This is a new Sierra filter that is supposed to capture all the water, but like all filters that are doing their job - they will plug and not pass fuel. I installed a three way valve, so when the first filter plugs, all I have to do is change the valve to the other, new filter. How do I know when to change?

1-The engine begins to slow down

2-The fuel line bulb begins to collapse

Racor has a vacuum gauge that screws into their filter, but it is $$$ and I am cheap.

BTW, I have two new Sierra stainless steel water seperator/filters with the sight glass that I am not going to use. They are available at my cost + tax, about $100 each.
 

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one piece of advice:

The order that the fuel line components need to be in is:

1)tank

2)fuel line

3)primer bulb

4)filter assembly

5)more fuel line

6) motor

If you try to put the primer bulb after the filter, it won't be able to generate enough suction to draw fuel from the tank. I learned this the hard way!:boo
 

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Correct on the fuel bulb location. On my setup I placed the first bulb between the tank and filters, then another one after the filters. The bulbs are simple one way valves allowing fuel to flow one direction only. They are clearly marked with an arrow, yet I have seen them installed wrong.

Some outboards may not have a fuel pump adequate to deal with the increased friction loss of the two fuel bulbs. Not so with my 1985 Evinrude, made in The USA!

When charging my system the first time, I use my test bench filter and electric fuel pump. Insert the pick up in the clean fuel, which goes to my test bench filter, then the 12 volt pump to the on board filters, and into a bucket for proper disposal. This not only charges the system, it flushes any detritus from the lines. Then I do the same with filter #2. So, I now have filtered, clean, NON-ETHANOL fuel from the tank to the outboard.

Since my boat is a 1999 and I do not know the capacity of the tank or it's condition, I am using portable tanks while I do a tank cleaning. I put 5 gallons of 10% ethanol, plus Star Brite's "Fuel Tank Cleaner" in the aluminum tank. I will use the boat with the portable tanks while the installed tank gets a cleaning. After a while, with some rough water running, I will pump this out and refill the tank at Bahia Mar where I know I will get 100% gas, NO ETHANOL.

ETHANOL SUX!
 

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My 96 has the bulb right before the motor.

Skip

Same here. I have never needed to use my bulb with the 99 Honda 4 strokes but had to use the bulb every time before starting the 89 Yamaha 2 stroke. Never had a problem with the bulbs being sitting in the splashwell.

I think it would look neater though if it was somewhere else. I just go by the old rule, If it ain't broke don't fix it. Tons of stuff has been broke on my old boat but I have been lucky so far when it comes to the gas lines. When I change them out this winter I may sit it up like that though. (10 year maintance)
 

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I have my filter in the center console about a foot away from the gas tank and the bulb all the way in the rear next to the out board and never have any trouble pumping up the fuel line.
 

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I have an e-tec and the primer bulb is right before the motor...racor filter after that...never had to prime it...no issues at all..almost 250 hrs and running strong. The only thing with the racor filters is that they tend to rust bad ...in the outside that is, other that that its ok. Use a fuel conditioner regardless, keep your gas tank full and you'll be alright.
 

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Racor, best made has clear bowl on bottom and a drain, used on all my heavy equip for 30 yrs., there are some equivent, can get racors from about any tk shop or marina. I got them because of dirty fuel make any size u need
 

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Agree with previous post, here's the one I have on my boat and love it. The clear bowl on the bottom is a quick way to see if there's any water of other junk. Agree with Shark about the housing being stainless (don't know where to find them) because they should hold up a bit better. The link is just a reference, you probably get them at Kenny's or online somewhere.


Ted


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...6840107QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear
 
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