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Discussion Starter #1
Some time ago I noticed that the paint was starting to blister on the prop end of the motor. This week the paint came off and I can see what appears to be corrosion on part of the motor. As you can see by the pics not the entire motor has the problem.

Now my questions:

1. should I remove all of the paint off the motor and start anew, or just work on the end with the problem?
2. is sanding the corrosion off all I need to do?
3. since I believe that the motor part with the problem is aluminum, is there special primer and paint I should use?
4. where locally can I get the correct primer/paint for this salt water application?
5. if I decide not to do the work myself can anyone recommend someone locally that can do the work?
6. what other questions should I be asking to make sure that this is done correctly?

Thanks in advance for all help and suggestions.

tm4.JPG
tm2.JPG
tm4.JPG
 

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Sand it down, use a quality etching primer, top coat, rock and roll.


Or do nothing. Rinse it off after use and it'll likely outlast the rest of the motor.

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

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It's caused by not disconnecting the Power to the TM.....This is why I install a Master ON/OFF switch to Kill Power to the TM and instruct people to Use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's caused by not disconnecting the Power to the TM.....This is why I install a Master ON/OFF switch to Kill Power to the TM and instruct people to Use it.
This should not be the cause. I have a master on/off switch solely for the trolling motor and I always turn it off after I return from fishing and it does not go on again until I am ready to fish again.
 

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Green Eggs And Ham
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Me I would take it apart and have it bead blasted (round beads of glass) NOT SAND. then coat with self etching primer and paint.
 

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Some time ago I noticed that the paint was starting to blister on the prop end of the motor. This week the paint came off and I can see what appears to be corrosion on part of the motor. As you can see by the pics not the entire motor has the problem.

Now my questions:

1. should I remove all of the paint off the motor and start anew, or just work on the end with the problem?
2. is sanding the corrosion off all I need to do?
3. since I believe that the motor part with the problem is aluminum, is there special primer and paint I should use?
4. where locally can I get the correct primer/paint for this salt water application?
5. if I decide not to do the work myself can anyone recommend someone locally that can do the work?
6. what other questions should I be asking to make sure that this is done correctly?

Thanks in advance for all help and suggestions.

View attachment 1070981 View attachment 1070982 View attachment 1070981
Remove the prop to inspect behind it. Remove the corrosion with a soft wire wheel brass or stainless. Use a etching primer and top coat with a enamel or urethane. I wipe mine down with wax or any type of corrosion preventive compound to put a barrier from saltwater.
 

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Jaded Old Phart
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What does the anode in the prop hub look like?

Add this for what the casing is coated with.
 

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I ran into the paint peeling off the center portion of the housing on my Minn Kota about 3 years into its lifespan. I asked the same question, ended up asking the guy I use for my service and he said it happens, and just sand it down, spray paint it with Rust-Oleum and keep on truckin. I been doing that, and it's done ok. Occasional re-application, but to be honest at the rate I've had to replace parts on this MK, I'll be getting a new trolling motor before the corrosion on the lower unit ever has a chance to matter.
 

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Jaded Old Phart
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How corroded is the anode? I have a used MK ST that the anode is looking really well corroded.
Motor case has had to be painted once, didn't look as bad as yours.
Just wondering if the anode isn't doing its job.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How corroded is the anode? I have a used MK ST that the anode is looking really well corroded.
Motor case has had to be painted once, didn't look as bad as yours.
Just wondering if the anode isn't doing its job.

Been busy and haven't had a chance to check

I will do that tomorrow and post a pic.
 

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After you get it sanded, primed and painted, you might consider putting a small (50 cent coin sized) pancake anode on the skeg. Just drill a small diameter mounting hole, and put it on.
Being small, and the trolling motor won't be hydroplaning (super high speed), it will not affect the performance of the trolling motor. It will help future corrosion. Use an aluminum or zinc anode for saltwater and brackish water. Do not use Magnesium anodes for saltwater, they will dissolve too rapidly for proper protection. Magnesium anodes are better suited for freshwater applications.

1071060
 

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Jaded Old Phart
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Looks like it's working. The casings always seemed to corrode like pot metal, MK says the casing is coated with aluminum.
Is it just the aluminum corroding or is it the metal under it? Guess just scrub it good, find some zinc chromate primer and topcoat. Repeat every other year.
The Rustoleum appliance paint seemed to work nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
From one old Phart to another, kanaka, I'm at a point that I need to do something so I am going to take your advice.

I didn't realize that that front part was just a coating.

When I removed the prop I found that the prop side paint is also coming off and I'm going to have t address that too. It's going to be more difficult to get all of the paint off there because of the depression on the face.

I'm going to send a complaint to Motor Guide. The motor is about 3 and a 1/2 years old. Must have been a bad paint job. Before this motor I had a tiller Minn Kota that was about 10 yrs old and the paint looked like the day I bought it.

TM front.JPG
 

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Jaded Old Phart
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Just keep in mind the zinc chromate primer mentioned was for aluminum and I don't know if MG went and did the same to their cases as MK did. Self etching primer probably gonna be the best for rattle cans.
A clean and strip wheel will probably be your best bet for the exterior, might have to bite the bullet and trim it down to do the inside area. PLEASE wear a mask when doing this.
Whatever way you go, be aware that the corrosion is probably in the pores of the case so it'll keep on doing it's thing.
 

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I had the same problem 3-4 years ago and will spare you the long version. Basically posted a similar picture as you on this forurm and got several of similar responses. Spent hours prepping and spraying with the recommended primer, top coats etc. In short, nothing lasted very long. Went through the entire process 3 times. Eventually ended up getting the motor housing replaced. I suppose if you could find someone to Line-X it that might work.
My post history disappeared after they changed the format of the forum otherwise I'd send you the link to that thread.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I sent something to Motor Guide (now owned by Mercury Marine) describing everything and offered to send them pics. They responded that although my motor is out of warranty I should send a specific person the pics. I did that yesterday and have not heard back from them. I'll post back after I hear back from them and let everyone know what they said. Until I hear back from them I'm gonna hold off on doing anything.
 
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