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I’m getting ready to pour some trolling lure heads that I’ve shaped on a lathe and molded. I’ve been using Alumilites Water Clear, and curing in a pressure pot to prevent air bubbles. The main focus on these first few heads will be Wahoo; therefore, they’ll need to be able to handle some hard hits.. Has anyone used this and had a problem with chipping easily? Is there another brand anyone would recommend?
 

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Check out BJB Enterprises. Product WC-792 It has a shore hardness of 84. This is what some resin head manufacturers use. Alumalite has a shore hardness of 72. Yellowing is another issue with cheaper urethanes. Be careful if your using the harbor freight pressure pot for a vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check out BJB Enterprises. Product WC-792 It has a shore hardness of 84. This is what some resin head manufacturers use. Alumalite has a shore hardness of 72. Yellowing is another issue with cheaper urethanes. Be careful if your using the harbor freight pressure pot for a vacuum.
I appreciate the info. It looks promising, I’m about to order some now. BJB’s product also has a 6 month shelf life compared to Alumilites 3 months.

Uh oh.. Yes, I bought a HF pressure pot about two months ago. I made a few modifications right out of the box. I’m using it for pressure, not a vacuum, though. Bad experience with one? Thanks again. Don’t know how I haven’t came across that company before.
 

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I use West Systems 105 Resin and 207 special clear, shore hardness of 84.5, no yellowing, kind of expensive but so is all the others, I've used Alummalite , and like this better, set the pressure pot at 40 psi and don't move it for at least 12 hours, no bubbles and perfect. I make blanks for Pens and bowls to turn on my lathe.
 

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I use West Systems 105 Resin and 207 special clear, shore hardness of 84.5, no yellowing, kind of expensive but so is all the others, I've used Alummalite , and like this better, set the pressure pot at 40 psi and don't move it for at least 12 hours, no bubbles and perfect. I make blanks for Pens and bowls to turn on my lathe.
I’ll have to check into them as well, looks like West Marine May keep it in stock. I’ll be pouring a lot over the holidays. I wasn’t familiar with the shore hardness scale so I did a little reading up on it. More or less the same concept as the janka scale with wood. I think a higher shore hardness will be best in most cases, but may have to take it down a little when there isn’t much to work with between the head insert and outside diameter of the mold. Trial & error & error & error, I suppose. Do you use any veneer or shell on your pen blanks?
 

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I think the BJB product will require vacuum. That's why I was saying be careful with the HF pot. I saw a video of a guy (can't find it now) using it as a vacuum that caused it to explode or implode. It's looked really scary.
 

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I think the BJB product will require vacuum. That's why I was saying be careful with the HF pot. I saw a video of a guy (can't find it now) using it as a vacuum that caused it to explode or implode. It's looked really scary.
I couldn’t find anything that specifically said vacuum, but I’ll be putting it in the pressure pot for sure. There were a few post curing steps they recommended with heat. I’ll have to let you know how it goes once I make a pour. Doesn’t look like it’ll be in until late next week, though.

I changed some valves on mine and have two regulators before the inlet. It’s rated for 60 PSI, but I try to stay around 50 and have the relief valve set at about 58. Seems like a I may seen what you’re talking about while I was researching them..
 

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I only use vacuum when I'm stabilizing, heat works well, I just don't like standing there with the heat source, put it in a pressure pot and do something else, as far as pressure, I really haven't seen a noticeable difference between 40 and 50 psi quality, so I chose the lower pressure, it's safer.
 
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