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on the brakes i have drum and i knew this but wasnt thinking drum brakes dont work in reverse.. how stupid but ill put my fingers in motion agian bdfore i put my brain in gearagian.. here goes nothing. when unfreein the brakes i took the hub off several time, each time i put it back together and packed it with grease.. i did what i call a trailer test before i pull it more than 100 miles. the hub i have been working on gets a little warm on a 25 mile trip all others are cool. is this normal. what should i look for any suggestions i dont want to be broken down if at all possible.. i just mean warn ,not luke hot, about like warm baby milk is the best i can describe
 

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hopefully I wont get burned for trying to help again. But look at the hub and see if it is rusty. If it is try taking some sand paper and taking it down some. Sounds like you have one dragging. If you have a grinder with a wire brush that will work good. If you dont, but want to borrow one PM me. If it isnt rusty and built up you would be better listening to others on here.I remeber someone saying something about a dragging pad locking it in reverse. I havent rebuilt but 2 sets of drum brakes in my life and I remember throwing stuff around a little bit. :banghead I am not an expert but I have tools you can borrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok let me try it this way, and thanks sniper for the offer i have all the tools but thanks agian. ill use ur brain. i have a free drum now it was rusty and i did as u said. cleaned up and ready except now i have the brakes undone because i am waiting on a part for a brake line.(fitting). the brakes are free no drag. but the bearing is getting a little warm after a 30 mile pull at 60 mph. all others are cool is this normal because it is packed with fresh grease. all others agian are running cold.
 

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If the bearing is in question I would replace it. They are cheap to do in the drive way compared to doing it on the side of the road. while you are getting the set to replace the one, get an extra to keep with you. I had a bearing fail on me and it took me forever to replace it. I jacked up the trailer and pulled what was left of the bearing and tried to take it to an auto shop. They couldnt match it with what was left. Trust me, get an extra set as a back up and keep it in a plastic ziplock bag or 3 packed in grease, Put it in a cubby where your spare is. IF you dont need it then you have peace of mind if you do need it, it will be worth $1,000 to ya trust me. Never push a bearing if you think it is going out.
 

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A few things can cause the problem of a warm/hot bearing. Wrong bearing to begin with (bearing and cup not matched correctly), improper bearing on spindle, not greased right, bad race/bearing, and most of all improper adjustment/loading of bearings. Take the idea of a spare bearing set for what it's worth. (if replacing, if you have any, keep the best set as a spare, actually best to have a spare hub with bearings installed) When adjusting the brakes, tighten the shoes so as to make the whole (drum and tire)unit snug and unable to turn at all. then back off till it is free but the shoes are dragging slightly (where you are able to rotate the wheel with a little effort). They will wear in very shortly. Adjust all the same.

Drum brakes do/can work in reverse. On a trailer with a hydraulic brake set-up, they will work in reverse if there is no lock-out, or not one properly workingand you put enough pressure to move the brake system forward on the tongue. When the brake system slides forward the system can't tell if you are moving forward or reversedas you stop the trailer moves forward, or you are backing up a hill and the weight pushes the boat/trailer forward toward the truck, same pressure as stopping. Three types are made. 1) Solenoid attached to the back-up lights (thus disabling brakes in reverse). 2) Manual lockout where you have to manually insert a pin of some sort (disabling brakes) 3) Same set-up as 1 but the solenoid is not installed for one reason or another, as never back up to where there is pressure pushing forward on your truck (will enable brakes). If you don't have some type of lockout system (electric or manual) the brakes will be applied whenever the system collapses. When the pin pushes on the piston, something is going to happen, properly or not.

Now my electric trailer brakes are engaged when the brakes are applied (brake lights come on), and I control the trailer braking from the brake controller (in the cab) manually while backing (no foot pressure on the brake pedal). And at times when I want the trailer to stop the truck while moving forward.
 

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No matter what kind or how much grease you use a hub assembly will get a little warm. The main thing is if you have bearing buddies do not over grease them because it will blow out the seal in the back.
 

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He was saying that there was only one getting warm on a short drive. The rest stayed cool. Unless I read it wrong.
 
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