Pensacola Fishing Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Was thinking about planting a spring/summer food plot this year and was wondering what you guys plant and what seems to work the best. Also when you plant. I know there's different opinions on this but just wanted to know what has worked best for you. Thanks for any responses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Thought I would give this a bump since it's that time of the year. I've been looking for seeds at the feed store but haven't found what I'm wanting. Have spoken with the new owner at the Dixie feed store and he is looking for input from hunters on what they would like him to stock. He is also willing to work with hunting clubs to get them what they need. Seems like a real nice guy from talking to him over the phone. He said to check with him in the next week or two for some seeds. Just thought I would pass that on.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
28,501 Posts
Clay peas, clay peas, and more clay peas....I usually mix up about 10-15 lbs of other types of peas/beans w/ each 50 lb sack of clay peas. Soak the peas fer bout 8-10 hours in water covering the mix, then hand cast em out....They start growing in 24-36 hours....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
Jason

Just broadcasting them out by hand ? Will they take hold? What about the darn crows & birds that will get them. We always plowed & raked the plots. Something new to me.

Was thinking of some Indian Corn & Peas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
Jason (24/04/2010)Clay peas, clay peas, and more clay peas....I usually mix up about 10-15 lbs of other types of peas/beans w/ each 50 lb sack of clay peas. Soak the peas fer bout 8-10 hours in water covering the mix, then hand cast em out....They start growing in 24-36 hours....
</p>


This is the way I was going to go until I talked with a guy at Pennington Seed. The problem with Clay Peas (accordind to this guy)is if a deer nips the tip off the sprout while it's young it dies. He told me to use Lab Lab as the bean b/c it grows regardlessand sorghum and clover as the greens. Clover cost way to much so it didn't make the cut. I was able to buy enough lab lab and sorghum for 9 average to small plots including fertilizer for about $200.</p>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Bullshark (24/04/2010)


Jason (24/04/2010)Clay peas, clay peas, and more clay peas....I usually mix up about 10-15 lbs of other types of peas/beans w/ each 50 lb sack of clay peas. Soak the peas fer bout 8-10 hours in water covering the mix, then hand cast em out....They start growing in 24-36 hours....
</p>



This is the way I was going to go until I talked with a guy at Pennington Seed. The problem with Clay Peas (accordind to this guy)is if a deer nips the tip off the sprout while it's young it dies. He told me to use Lab Lab as the bean b/c it grows regardlessand sorghum and clover as the greens. Clover cost way to much so it didn't make the cut. I was able to buy enough lab lab and sorghum for 9 average to small plots including fertilizer for about $200.</p>

Be careful with the lablab. From what I've read it doesn't handle a higher ph real well. Just have to make sure you pour the lime to the soil and even if you do it will take it a little while to adjust the ph. Let us know how it does cause I was thinking about trying it but changed my mind after I done a little research on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
I usually plant clay peas but this I year I am trying Power Plant from W.I., I will see how well it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Bullshark (24/04/2010)
Jason (24/04/2010)Clay peas, clay peas, and more clay peas....I usually mix up about 10-15 lbs of other types of peas/beans w/ each 50 lb sack of clay peas. Soak the peas fer bout 8-10 hours in water covering the mix, then hand cast em out....They start growing in 24-36 hours....

This is the way I was going to go until I talked with a guy at Pennington Seed. The problem with Clay Peas (accordind to this guy)is if a deer nips the tip off the sprout while it's young it dies. He told me to use Lab Lab as the bean b/c it grows regardlessand sorghum and clover as the greens. Clover cost way to much so it didn't make the cut. I was able to buy enough lab lab and sorghum for 9 average to small plots including fertilizer for about $200.
He was right about clay peas. Deer will nip them off as soon as they break ground unless you have a big enough plot to take the abuse, or have some way to keep them off of it for awhile. We planted sorghum one year and I swear I will never deal with that again. For one, I don't think it gives any protien benefit during the summer and when it head's up it is a carb. Give's them energy, but still no great benefit to antler growth. Plus, and it's a big plus. You have to deal with some pretty hefty stalk's when it come's to planting your next crop. JMO
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
28,501 Posts
In my post where I said I hand cast em out...I do that cause after the pea/bean has been soaking, they are more fragile. So I hand cast them then disc em under and after disc'n them under, I just drive back and forth over the plot to pack it in so the soil has a chance to surround the pea/bean. My deer eat em down purty good, ifin you are wanting them to grow a while you can put that deer fence stuff up, no clue what that'll cost you...

As fer the deer nipping the tops off, usually at my place the deer top em first then they have sprigs on the sides. They grow out then they eat them too. You have to understand there is sooooooo much green out there fer them that you are just jump starting their growth w/ high protein yields....They will come to the plots but they'll still eat away alot too...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Watermelons. If I had not seen it with my own eyes I would not believe it. An old man that I have been friends with in Muson for a long time plants watermelons and the deer walk past his corn and peas to eat on the vines and the melons when they come up. And what they don't get, you can eat. They are cheap to plant and require no upkeep. They spread like crazy and can take tons of abuse. Just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
We ran out of Lab Lab with 3 plots to go and the only store that was open after noon yesterday near the club only had clay peas. So i will have a real good idea on what would work best with just lots of fertilizer. In every plot we planted a blend of Bio logic spring mix, clover and sorghum. We did plan milit on the edges of the plots where we have seen Turkey to draw some more in.I really wish I would have read the sorghum comment before today b/c we put out a crap ton. Thats why we have a bush hog. I will show pics as soon as it comes up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
fishnfever (25/04/2010)
Bullshark (24/04/2010)
Jason (24/04/2010)Clay peas, clay peas, and more clay peas....I usually mix up about 10-15 lbs of other types of peas/beans w/ each 50 lb sack of clay peas. Soak the peas fer bout 8-10 hours in water covering the mix, then hand cast em out....They start growing in 24-36 hours....


This is the way I was going to go until I talked with a guy at Pennington Seed. The problem with Clay Peas (accordind to this guy)is if a deer nips the tip off the sprout while it's young it dies. He told me to use Lab Lab as the bean b/c it grows regardlessand sorghum and clover as the greens. Clover cost way to much so it didn't make the cut. I was able to buy enough lab lab and sorghum for 9 average to small plots including fertilizer for about $200.

Be careful with the lablab. From what I've read it doesn't handle a higher ph real well. Just have to make sure you pour the lime to the soil and even if you do it will take it a little while to adjust the ph. Let us know how it does cause I was thinking about trying it but changed my mind after I done a little research on it.
I don't know if the plants grow at different rates but it seems that you were 100% right. I have some great pics that I will upload later. The Lab Lab is 4" tall and thin and the Clay Peas are knee high and thick thick. The other think that is rockin is the Biologic blend. There is some crap that looks like corn that is thick. We planted 3 weeks ago.

Here is the best pic between the 2. The bottom is clay peas and the top is lab lab



Here are some plots with just clay peas. I'm never using the lab lab again.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,031 Posts
Queston... All of the food plot mixes that I have researched say that they should be planted in early spring or fall. Why is that? Is it because of summer rainfall? Is it too hot? I just planted grass in my front yard last week and it is growing like gang busters. Why is a food plot so different?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
They recommend it at that time to get ahead of the weed growth. Usually hitting the plot with Glyphosate (Round Up) a week or two before planting to kill any early weed growth. The spring is also a good time to get a plot established due to the rain we normally get. Also you want to get a head start on theplot so it'sestablished before a possible drought that we usually get in mid summer. It's not to say you can't get a good plot a little later in the year it's just that your chances are better at a successful plot. I'm sure there are other reasons such as having your food plot available when the does start fawning out and the bucks are starting to put on there antlers and I'm sure that someone else could chime in on that. As for the early fall its to have the food plot established when the vegetation/acorns start dying out in the winter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
Strictly Bizness (10/06/2010)Queston... All of the food plot mixes that I have researched say that they should be planted in early spring or fall. Why is that? Is it because of summer rainfall? Is it too hot? I just planted grass in my front yard last week and it is growing like gang busters. Why is a food plot so different?
The original purpose of food plotswas to bring deer into area they could be killed in durring hunting season. So they picked plants that grew durring hunting season (winter) that would bring deer in. Now there is a movement to QDM and larger deer so plants rich in protine have been added in the summer for antler growth. If you go to a feed and seed store they will have plot seed that is for summer planting. It mostly consists of sorugrum. lab lab, Iron clay peas, clover and corn for summer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,031 Posts
Thanks for the input guys. I was thinking what you guys said. I understand the protein concepts for antler growth and fawn development and understand rainfall and nutrient needs for the plants. We just got a lease outside of greenville back in december and due to teeball, baseball, fishing, and a load of other excuses we have not planted any spring/summer plots. So I am planning on taking it on myself in an effort to stop our trophy deer from seeking food and protein at the neighbors club. Thanks again and wish me luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
It might be cheaper to just put out protine pellets for this year. You can bait in Bama out of season. Corn will keep deer around. I'm running 6 feeders right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
I think it was Biomass. Colin (Pirate) gave me a crap ton in a bucket and some bags. It was like 75 lbs. Next year we are just doing Clay peas and corn.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top