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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So tested my slick tricks today and they shoot high and to the left about 8inches high and 4inches left. Field points-dead on. Rages-dead on.

Now I know everyone is goin to say get ur bow tuned but what does that actually accomplish? I hold my bow differently then most people and my peep is higher then most so I have like zero room to adjust my sights. What is actually tuned when you get your bow tuned that would fix this problem without having to move my sights? If I get it tuned will the tricks match my field points?

Any fixed blade I've ever shot shoots like this with my set up but field points and rages are dead on. What gives? I'm about to just stick with rages but I really wanna try the slick tricks for their durability.

I guess I should add I have a QAD Ultra Rest

Thanks
 

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you can tune your bow for broadheads by moving the rest and leaving the sights alone. Just move it a little at a time. (If you have an adjstable rest that is)

Or buy some broadheads that shoot like target points. I shoot grim reapers and never need to tune for them.

Good luck!:thumbsup:
 

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Doesnt matter where your field tips are hitting unless you are going to hunt with those.

Adjust sights to your broadheads flight and use one broadhead/arrow for target practicing.

(I shoot Slick Trick mags (100) and they do fly 8 inches higher than my field tips.)

Good Luck
 

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My bow did the same thing. I ask the bow shop that is near my house and he said just sight in to the broadheads. Everywhere you read online says get it tuned and they will hit same spot. I really believe the shop by the house can't tune it that good. I realize what to do from reading but just went and bought rages. I like to shoot to much just to shoot broadheads everytime. One of these days I reckon I gonna get it tuned but it won't be before this year. I already been shooting and ain't gonna change a thing.
 

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Doesnt matter where your field tips are hitting unless you are going to hunt with those.

Adjust sights to your broadheads flight and use one broadhead/arrow for target practicing.

(I shoot Slick Trick mags (100) and they do fly 8 inches higher than my field tips.)

Good Luck
Good advise right there.

I use G5 Montecs and they shoot exactly where my field tips shoot (Mathews Switchback, drop away rest). Also, G5 sells practice broadheads so you don't have to dull your hunting BHs. Maybe Slick Trick does also??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Why do you hold your bow different and why is your peep higher? Sounds like your bow is out of tune. Is the center shot correct? What kind of bow? Single or double cam?
I hold it normal but I shoot with my middle finger because I torque more with my pointer so my anchor is different and higher. Diamond Razor Edge 60lbs 26inches.

What is a center shot?
 

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Something is out of whack. Slick Tricks don't have much blade to them. I weigh every arrow by the gram before and after I screw on broadheads and compare to the field point weight. There's not enough blade to make them fly that much different. Sounds like you may be trying to watch them fly.
 

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Look up bare shaft tuning and work back to 20 yards or more. The more you bck up the more you wil see the bare shaft fly away from the fletched arrows. I shoot at a horizontal line to see nock adjustment needed get that fixed first then shoot at a vertical line to see rest center shot adjustment. If you can not get bare shaft to hit with fletched arrows than you need to adjust the yoke. On a right hand bow if the bare shaft hits left add one twist to the left yoke and remove one twist from the right yoke. Test shoot and adjust until the bare shaft hits with the fletched arrows. If the bare shaft hits left than do this in reverse. If the bare shaft hits higher than the fletched arrow after right left is fixed than add a twist to the bottom of the buss cable. Shot and adjust until b oth hit the same spot if the bareshaft hits low remove one twist until they hit the same spot. This adjust the cam at full draw. This is for single came bows only. Most bow shops will not take the time to do the yoke and buss cable adjustments as it is over kill for :thumbsup:most hunting bows. I think it is worth doing it makes for much better groups and wil:no::thumbsup:l make bow more forgiving if you find yourself having to shot from a funny position.
 

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all bows have tuning/timing marks depending on your bow manufacture, lot of SO CALLED PRO SHOPS round here have no idea how to tune or set up bows. the BEST advice above mentioned is to MOVE YOUR REST to the arrow to tune it to your head of choice.

now the other part of shooting is proper form or as close as you can get to it. that depends on you, there is no form that works perfect but there is form that is more consistant than others. it sounds like the bow may not even fit you if your index finger puts to much torque on the release???? usualy my index knuckle goes under my earlobe against the flat of my jaw, nose on the string, and peep about 3" above nocking point, if this isnt you, you need to find a shop to help you get fitted.

so to answer your question, move your rest, but make sure your shooting a bow that fits you!!! IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
all bows have tuning/timing marks depending on your bow manufacture, lot of SO CALLED PRO SHOPS round here have no idea how to tune or set up bows. the BEST advice above mentioned is to MOVE YOUR REST to the arrow to tune it to your head of choice.

now the other part of shooting is proper form or as close as you can get to it. that depends on you, there is no form that works perfect but there is form that is more consistant than others. it sounds like the bow may not even fit you if your index finger puts to much torque on the release???? usualy my index knuckle goes under my earlobe against the flat of my jaw, nose on the string, and peep about 3" above nocking point, if this isnt you, you need to find a shop to help you get fitted.

so to answer your question, move your rest, but make sure your shooting a bow that fits you!!! IMHO
The bow fits me. I shoot dead accurate. That is not the problem. I have good form, I'm not torquing, following through like I should and even had someone watching me while I shot for mistakes.

If I move the rest, will it affect where my field points hit? Or will it make it where my field points hit, my broadheads will hit?
 

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There could be one or several things that may be a little off.

Several questions/things for you to look at.

Are you shooting quality arrows or did you buy the least expensive arrows to save money? A good arrow makes shooting broadheads much much easier. It's hard to get good broadhead flight if your arrows are crooked, weight is off from one to the next, and if the spine of the arrow is inconsistent from one to the other.

What spine are the arrows and how long are they cut?

Are your fletchings making contact with your rest or riser?

Did you spin your arrows with broadheads installed to make sure they are perfectly in line with each other? I'm not talking about aligning the blades with the vanes. I'm talking about making sure the broadhead is perfectly straight in line with the arrow shaft.

Have you tried any tuning methods yourself or did you have someone at a shop tune your bow for you. Every one needs to know how to tune a bow if they are going to shoot one. It's like being a guitarist and not knowing how to tune a guitar. Even though we offer paper tuning at the store it isn't going to be perfect if you don't know how to fine tune yourself.

Do you have any cam lean in your bow while it's at rest?

Are the cams in sync with each other?

Are you shooting with a completely relaxed, neutral grip or are you holding the bow or forcing your hand open?



And finally,
READ THIS........
http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf

Oh yeah, one more thing. If you decide to shoot a mechanical because of this then you are doing nothing to help yourself. You're only putting a band aid on a problem that still exists.






On another note....... I'm sure it will get brought up here again so I'll go ahead and address it now.

I don't know who it was and don't care to argue about it so if it was anyone that's posted on this thread don't get your feathers ruffled but someone on another tuning thread a while back commented about pro shops setting up a bow by "eyeballing" them instead of using lasers to set center shot and level the arrow perfectly. These lasers do absolutely nothing what so ever to make sure your bow is tuned nor do they get the bow close. Sure the look cool and the ill informed customer thinks they are getting some kind of "super tune" but they are getting duped. How many times do you think it takes for a pro shop to set up a specific bow model before they get it figured out?

There are a very few bows that have the ability to shoot true center shot after being tuned. Every bow exhibits side torque due to the cables being pulled off center to allow for clearance for the fletchings. Not only does this cause side torque but it also causes cam lean at full draw. Couple this with imperfect humans holding the bow and 99.9% of all bows out there will tune left of center (for a right handed shooter) and the majority of them will tune nock high.

Bottom line is don't get taken by some pro shop breaking out all of these fancy gadgets and think you are getting something you aren't.
 

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Shoot the rages!! 33 days is too close to start this voodoo rain dance on your bow. I did it one year and the night before the opener at 1am I was removing a new drop away rest and putting the whisker biscuit back on. Shoot the Rages!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Pm to you bigbulls.

Here is a pic to show you how I hold my bow and how I shoot so it makes more sense when I say I use my middle finger. My hand looks like it is completely around the grip but is not. I base it against my hand and my fingers are lightly touching the grip in the front.
 

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Some things I can see right off the bat are......

Let go of the bow. I know you said you weren't holding it it but the more you touch it the more you torque the bow.

Roll/rotate your shoulder and arm out so that the grip is only touching the pad of your thumb. You should not have any part of the riser touching your hand on the other side of your life line.

Shorten your release by about an inch. You're reaching for the trigger.

It appears that the wrist sling is fairly tight around your wrist. If it is tight then loosen it up so that it just barely touches your arm.



And I completely disagree with shooting the rages as a quick fix. There is plenty of time to get your bow shooting properly. We still have more than a month to get it right. Regardless of what broadhead you choose to shoot a properly tuned bow will shoot straighter, retain KE down range, penetrate better and give the shooter a hell of a lot more confidence than having that nagging voice in the back of your head.
 
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