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Discussion Starter #1
I did something stupid.. can't believe it happened. I hooked up my #2 battery backwards.

So far the damage is a melted lead thumbscrew post on a deep-cycle battery and a perko battery switch.

Luckily nothing caught fire and nothing smells burnt. My problem is now nothing happens when I turn the key. My tilt operates fine, and the accessories on the switch panel operate fine, bilge pump works fine, but when I turn the key.... nothing. No audible alarm, no gauges, no starter engagement.

I have a 2001 Captiva 232 with a 350 Magnum MPI hooked to a Bravo 3 outdrive.

I traced the battery cables and they look fine, i.e. no melted insulation. From what I can see on the engine... nothing is melted there.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Did the same thing once. 2nd battery was low, had someone put it on a charger, and I remembered later that I twisted my arm when putting it back in place. Watched the post melt off the battery as it sat between my legs. I got lucky there, but the boat was dead in the water. Got it home and traced every wire I could fine for obvious damage and checking out fuses along the way, but never found anything. Finally took it to a mechanic and he found an inline fuse I never checked apparently... lucky again.

Retrace every wire again and check any in line fuses. We have similar boats and it ended up being an inline fuse for me. With other systems working, I'm guessing you have a similar issue.
 

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There should be a inline fuse between your ignition switch and the battery switch or distribution block. Like stated above if other things are working, try tracing back from ignition switch.
 

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If the breaker on the top of the engine isn't tripped, then you may have blown the fusable link down on the main terminal of the starter. Real pain in the kester to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I checked out a wiring diagram from a service manual that I downloaded from the interweb, and following the advice in this thread, I found a fusible link attached to the main pole of the starter.

I ran my DVOM through it, and there is no continuity.

Do I need a new one or can it be serviced somehow? I only ask because it is the weirdest fusible link I have ever seen, and it's $30 dang dollars online!!!!!
 

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Well it did save your wiring from damage didn't it? So do you really want to chance not having it? I am not fond of the fusable links since when they blow, you are stranded and no way to reset or replace them. Mercruiser is the only one that uses these where other builders use an inline breaker or fuse. Now if you are really mechanical, you could do a bit of rewiring and install either a breaker or fuse instead of the link. I don't know what amperage the link is though. I have in the past installed a 50 amp inline fuse and it worked well.
 

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Do some searching and find the amperage of the original fuse link. Do what CaptKen say's and replace it with a breaker or fuse that can be serviced. It can save you if you are out on the water.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update: that fusible link was the problem! Replaced it today (what a pain in the rump to get to) and got my console/dash power back, and was able to fire the engine up. I checked my charging system while I was at it, and 14+ volts. Yay!

Two newly discovered problems though... my Corsa side exhaust stopped working :( I can push the solenoids in and they stick when it's activated, but won't open themsleves up. The second issue is my blower quit working. I'm gonna hit it with a hammer tomorrow and see what happens.

A big shout-out to Kenny @ Emerald Coast Marine!! The only one in town who had the right part in stock... again! Highly recommended!!

CaptKen, you have a very good point. From what I have been reading, the whole point of that link is for exactly what I did. I just have to make sure I don't do it again lol. I am going to look into putting in a 90A circuit breaker there.

Now back to re-wiring the battery switch with a BEP VSR or a Blue Sea add-a-battery thingy.
 
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