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Neptune calls me "Daddy"
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If you're gonna take it to Accu prop, they will lend you a puller.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
whats the type puller you need to do the flange at the tranny? I have only ever use automotive type pullers. It looks like the jaw type would work.
 

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Neptune calls me "Daddy"
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I'm pretty sure all prop pullers pull from the hub just because of damage like yours.

Here is the type I used...


There are other designs if you don't have a lot of clearance between the prop and the strut hub.

You'll probably have to tap the forward side with a hammer. Try a rubber hammer first. And just loosen the inboard nut a couple turns. Do NOT remove the nut as pictured above.When the prop gives, it gives all at once and will pop off the shaft if you let it, tool and prop now on the ground, feet, etc.

Jim
 

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I have a prop puller you can borrow. It is a heavy duty. Will pull my 22 X 22 on 1 1/2" shaft.

I am on Bayou Chico. Call 572 1225 after 0700
 

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That prop looks too close to the cutless bearing. I've been pulling props for 30 years and never seen one that close to the cutless. There is no room to get a puller in front of the wheel. Usually there is about 3/4" between the front of the wheel and the bearing housing to allow a puller to get between them. I have a puller you can use but it's 1/2" thickplate.Ron 850-712-2603
 

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Another thing you can do if you can't get a puller between the prop and housing. Take the first nut all the way off the shaft then back the second nut back until it is even with the end of the shaft. Then take two steel tapered wedges and drive them evenly in between the front of the prop and bearing housing. Then hit the end of the shaft with a good sized hammer. You may have to keep driving the wedges down further and re hitting the shaft until it breaks the taper and comes off. I also have some steel wedges if you need to borrow them. As for your question about the coupler flange a regular puller will remove the coupler flange. By unbolting the coupler and sliding the shaft back you will be able to get a puller on the prop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was thinking I could undo the coupler at the tranny , slide the shaft out enough to get the puller on it?
 

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Neptune calls me "Daddy"
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That'd work, but typically the prop will need a little "persuasion" to break free. It might be kinda hard to tap it off the shaft if the shaft is free.

Maybe just loosen the shaft at the flange enough so you can slip the puller on...

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another problem with getting the flange off is room to get A puller on it. this guy made a puller out of 1/2 "plate with a nut welded on the middle of it .

 

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Couplers are not tapered and they usually have a split. Most will when the bolts are loosened come off with a tapping from a hammer a wedge will help and then maybe some heat on the coupler. The one pictured doesn't look like it would be that bad from corrosion. The only thing that holds the coupler from turning is the key and the squeeze from tightening the bolts. Something else when you get everything back together you must align the face of the coupler with the engine coupler face and the boat should be in the water to do that. If you have an out of alinement coupler you will have many problems arising from it. You align the coupler by shimming or moving the engine to make the two surfaces align.
 

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I'm sorry I made fun of you. I have a big rubber mallet if you need it.(Actually the mallet used for getting the seams on the panels to lock together. Ever feel like you just paid full price for a car with no motor??)



ANd the propane torch, provides wide even heat. Just let me know when you are gonna do that down in the bilge, I wanna stand across the street and take video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Others have told me about the alignment issue also. I dont understand how it would get out of alignment if you havent moved the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Clay-Doh (2/15/2010)I'm sorry I made fun of you. I have a big rubber mallet if you need it.(Actually the mallet used for getting the seams on the panels to lock together. Ever feel like you just paid full price for a car with no motor??)

ANd the propane torch, provides wide even heat. Just let me know when you are gonna do that down in the bilge, I wanna stand across the street and take video.
I dont need A cheering section from you ............:doh
 

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Jim T's sworn enemy!
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I have a large 3 Jaw puller your more than welcome to use but ya may have to disconnect the rudder linkage to allow it to fit. If that won't work than a 2xfo and a sledge hammer definately will. After all,how much more damage can ya possibly do? Nice job by the way! :doh
 

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Brandy (2/15/2010)Others have told me about the alignment issue also. I dont understand how it would get out of alignment if you havent moved the motor?
A million things can cause misalingment. there is a small ridge on the coller just put that ridge into the hole on the engine flange and check for alinment with a feeler gauge around the entire circle of the flange 12, 3, 6 and 9 oclock. There should only be a couple thousands difference around the face of the flanges. You must do this in the water because it will change when you putboat in the water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks to oldflathead! He had everything needed to pull it apart. I had A little more room than the guys boat in the pic. Looks like its going to come apart just fine. If youve never met oldflathead he is the man. He knew exactly what the deal is. Hell he has enough parts to build my drivtrain twice. The way im going I might need them. lol
 
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