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I have a 140 HP Suzuki outboard Motor with right at 350 hours on the motor. Motor as performed flawlessly for the past 2 years we have owned it! Last weekend while out fishing the motor had a bad idle and at times would die if not brought up to a higher rev. Brought the boat back in and looked it over and pulled my manual out to begin diagnosing the issue. I found my gauges were throwing a code to a sensor located on the top of the manifold. Long story short it is not the sensor but a plug located on the left side bottom corner of what I can tell of the aluminum block. The plug which is steel and serves absolutely no purpose seems to have corroded and is now loosing exhaust pressure and I can see water spitting out. I was told from someone this is a common problem due to the fact the block is aluminum and the plug is steel. I was told the main fix for this is to remove the plug and weld the hole completely shut. Has anyone ever had dealings with this and any suggestions on who I may be able to contact for ideas to repair? I will attach a picture of the plug and where its located.
Thanks for the help.
 

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Suzuki Engine Holder Corrosion

Fortunately your not alone with the problem, its common on the early model Suzuki's. The plug your referring in the exhaust port was to be used for inserting a 02 sensor. Engineering screw-up putting a steel plug in there and not just because of the dissimilar metals and corrosion prone area (runs thru a water jacket) and will eventually corrode out. Good news is starting in 2005 and above the 0xygen sensor port in "engine holder" has been cast over. There are options depending on the amount of corrosion you may have; inspect thoroughly and determine exactly how much is corroded out in the engine holder. Plugging the hole may last for awhile but if the corrosion has went further your eventually end up with water in the oil and possibly head damage (usually water ingestion via #4 cylinder thru the exhaust valve). Hopefully yours wont be a painful or as expensive as my last five DF115's have been.

Option 1 - if the steel plug can be removed and the threads are not severely damaged there is an aluminum plug (available on Ebay) that can screwed in using JB weld as the sealant,

Option 2) Coastal Engine & Machine (Todd) may be able to hook you up and weld the holder

Option 3) Pull the power head and remove and replace engine holder.

If you have access to a cherry picker, and a good set of metric tools, torque wrench, it can be a easy weekend project. Also to help with sticker shock a new holder is around $980, and don't forget about the gaskets (engine holder, pump case and valve cover) another $150-$175. If your shopping for a good used/non corroded engine holder let me know.

I've attached a two photos to show you my experience with the problem. Believe it or not the engines has less than 270 hours on them (Glacier Bay). Also where to corrosion occurs (inside the exhaust channel) no matter how much flushing you do you'll never reach this area.

PM me if you have any questions..hopefully this info helps.
 

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