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Looking for someone who can sharpen good heavy metal German fillet knives. Bought them in a 6 piece kit from the guys who use to come to all of the tournaments.
 

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Lots of us on this forum have “Work Sharp” knife sharpeners, including me.
This machine will put a razor edge on your filet knives.
I’m home most evenings and will be here most all weekend.
I’d be glad to put an edge on them for you.
Frank
850-501-fifteen seventy four
Text me
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Frank, I will be out of town this weekend but will get up with you later next week.
I bought these knives from specialty Cutlery out of Sarasota fl . They are the blue handle fillet knives and are VERY thick.
Thank You
 

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Wolfgang
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I have always been partial to using a steel. Most sharpeners nowadays remove too much material from the blade. And those knives sound expensive, you wouldn't want to kill them with carbide.
 

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I have always been partial to using a steel. Most sharpeners nowadays remove too much material from the blade. And those knives sound expensive, you wouldn't want to kill them with carbide.
Worksharp removes very little metal, it is not a ripper. Similar to what professionals and manufacturers use.
 

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***Creepy A$$ Cracker***
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I ah e been using a lansky manual sharpener for years and I love it. This post and the original caught my attention once again and I just pulled the amazon trigger on the Ken onion work sharp. My question is this. I am the guy that will hone my blade til it is beyond surgical. I like it smooth yet sharp. That being said, what other belts should I add to achieve the ultimate “blade of unicorn” sharp? Thanks in advance!:thumbsup:
 

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I use a worn out X4 belt and put flitz metal polish on it. The blade will have a nice sharp shiny edge that is incredibly sharp almost to sharp. I have heard of people using the leather strop belts never tried one. The last thing I do for my filet knifes is I put a 15 degree angle on them and if you just look at it wrong it might cut you. I do this on mine only just because it will roll the edge abit faster but just 30 seconds on the sharpener its back. It will take some practice if you want I can show you how easy it really is.

Also I would just stick with the original belts it comes with, the aftermarket belts don't last nearly as long.
I bought a 5 pack of the x65 and the p120. These are the ones that put the edge on it fast and the x22 and x4 fine tune the shiny sharp. You will be tempted to use the 6000 thin belt don't do it as it will make it dull it is to stretchy and will roll the edge it works good for the back side of a serrated blade but nothing else.

1 other thing I would like to add is I always clean fish with 3 knifes I am cheap and use dexter Russell knifes. I like the 8" blade, I use 2 of those and 1 serrated. The serrated for cross cut through scales and skin, then use one regular 8" to take the filet off the fish and 1 8" for taking the skin off the meat and this will help keep the surgical knife sharp for a very long time.
 

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For me a harbor freight 1x30 inch belt sander with multiple grade fine belts and a leather belt work great .... I can put a shaving - paper slicing edge on a blade in minutes, and strop a blade back to fully sharp in seconds


If you go see the knife sharping truck that shows up at flea markets - he has 3 or 4 1x30 sanders set up and walks a blade from course to fine to strop as needed.


The 1" wide belt does add a lot of heat into the blade - so if you keep the blade moving to don't risk getting it hot and losing the temper (an issue with thin tip filet knives)


I keep sharp sticks on the cleaning table for touch-ups, but the 1x30 belts have made my knife sharping a whole lot easier and consistent
 

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For me a harbor freight 1x30 inch belt sander with multiple grade fine belts and a leather belt work great .... I can put a shaving - paper slicing edge on a blade in minutes, and strop a blade back to fully sharp in seconds


If you go see the knife sharping truck that shows up at flea markets - he has 3 or 4 1x30 sanders set up and walks a blade from course to fine to strop as needed.


The 1" wide belt does add a lot of heat into the blade - so if you keep the blade moving to don't risk getting it hot and losing the temper (an issue with thin tip filet knives)


I keep sharp sticks on the cleaning table for touch-ups, but the 1x30 belts have made my knife sharping a whole lot easier and consistent
EB0EC654-F268-493C-A4D1-33746EF4E9CD.jpg


Best you can get. I bought a workshop a year or so ago when my first belt sander crapped out. I prefer the 1x30. Bought me a new one yesterday. A 320 belt and a leather belt to finish with and it’ll be so sharp you’ll have nightmares.

In my opinion the 1x30 blows the worksharp away. I own both.
 
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