Marine treated lumber for trailer bunks
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I glue the carpet to the bunk and staple. Maybe over kill but it don't come off. lol
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They don't corrode, this should be a standard for upolstry on boats but nOOOooooo they use the cheap ones and get rust drips/stains on everything.
Trailer repairs!
The trailer needed some love, so since we are Corona-ed in I figured I would get something done. I went to Eddie English's trailer shop and he had some awesome brackets, carpet and a new strap. I ordered some Monel staples (thanks X-Shark) and went to lowes for nuts and bolts. On the side...
www.pensacolafishingforum.com
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Do you stack them on edge? Those boards are not structural.
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Just get the pressure treated....
cheap to replace in 10-15 years. then just find a couple 4X8's or something that would work.
cheap to replace in 10-15 years. then just find a couple 4X8's or something that would work.
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How do you cut the proper angle on them? I've heard of people gluing and screwing 2 boards together for bunks. I'm on the fence about just ordering 2 new complete bunks and hardware for about $450. How much would you save just getting lumber and carpet?
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1 marine treated 2x6x12’= $25 (actual 2”x6”)
1 precut carpet 12”x12’=$32
4 brackets = $35
4 swivel pcs = $20
I keep calling them bunks but its the front boards on the trailer. I’ll take a picture when it quits raining to clarify what Im trying to do.
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Agree. Way too much flex in those for secure hull support.
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I ask about this a year or 2 back when I broke one in a damn near Wreck.Everyone said take it to Eddie English witch was not realistic for me and where live or contact the manufacturer(magic trail) 1200 just for the bunks bare still had to cut the angles drill holes and carpet.Have the same style rear bunks as you do but a little bigger on this boat trailer . Measure the high side and the width + length find you a saw mill that has some (White oak this is what the old timers around here told me to get) Get them to rough cut it. Jack your boat up on one side and get the angle. Cut that angle with whatever you have. Skill saw,Reciprocating saw Chainsaw whatever use a angle grinder to slick it up if you don't have the tools or resources to have it done per spec.
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6,433 Posts
There is a sawmill in Holt that cuts Cypress... Those are the standard for the rear bunks.
For the forward Keel bunks I don't use PT.... However and this is 2 X 6. I use a quarter swan #1 Clear Pine.
Most people would faint when they see the price of them.... You Can NOT buy it at a box store. It's dense, It's hard and its strong. It is or was about $25 for a 2X6X6ft. Using the cover style slicks...They dry. I also don't use lag bolts for the brackets, but rather slightly countersink on the top side and threw bolt. I've seen multiple times lag bolts get ripped out of box store PT wood, when a boat hits it wrong.... In fact It happened on XShark and then there is the Lag bolts sticking up to gouge your hull, But you don't know it from the helm and drive on, gouging the Piss out of your hull. Box store PT is Fast growth pine, which is #2 lumber.
Composite decking? It doesn't have the strength that lumber has.
Speaking of composite decking.... All of you have seen the transition from wood to composite and back to wood on the county ramp docks. Why is that? We all know composites do way better when it comes to weathering...But there is a problem... Strength and standing up to ramming speed boat operators....
I wanted to know why the switch? Turns out public works could not keep up with all the repairs and we know how expensive composites are of the consatiant breaking up of the docks.
For the forward Keel bunks I don't use PT.... However and this is 2 X 6. I use a quarter swan #1 Clear Pine.
Most people would faint when they see the price of them.... You Can NOT buy it at a box store. It's dense, It's hard and its strong. It is or was about $25 for a 2X6X6ft. Using the cover style slicks...They dry. I also don't use lag bolts for the brackets, but rather slightly countersink on the top side and threw bolt. I've seen multiple times lag bolts get ripped out of box store PT wood, when a boat hits it wrong.... In fact It happened on XShark and then there is the Lag bolts sticking up to gouge your hull, But you don't know it from the helm and drive on, gouging the Piss out of your hull. Box store PT is Fast growth pine, which is #2 lumber.
Composite decking? It doesn't have the strength that lumber has.
Speaking of composite decking.... All of you have seen the transition from wood to composite and back to wood on the county ramp docks. Why is that? We all know composites do way better when it comes to weathering...But there is a problem... Strength and standing up to ramming speed boat operators....
I wanted to know why the switch? Turns out public works could not keep up with all the repairs and we know how expensive composites are of the consatiant breaking up of the docks.
I know most here are referring to fiberglass hulls, but for the sake of discussion, do NOT use pressure treated bunks on aluminum hulls (assuming carpet - slicks are fine).
Pressure treated wood has a high copper content, and copper is very corrosive to aluminum. Carpet staying wet with saltwater provide a conductive pathway between the two metals. I've seen and repaired quite a few hulls where the rest of the boat is pristine, but the pinholes have formed in multiple places down the length of the bunks.
Ideally, don't use carpet bunks on aluminum hulls in general, as the saltwater alone will cause that, but the pressure treated speeds up the process significantly.
Pressure treated wood has a high copper content, and copper is very corrosive to aluminum. Carpet staying wet with saltwater provide a conductive pathway between the two metals. I've seen and repaired quite a few hulls where the rest of the boat is pristine, but the pinholes have formed in multiple places down the length of the bunks.
Ideally, don't use carpet bunks on aluminum hulls in general, as the saltwater alone will cause that, but the pressure treated speeds up the process significantly.
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Galvanic corrosion.
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This is what Im trying fix. Brackets are to short and it’s hard to load with just the back bunks. These are 8” brackets. I’m gonna make the boards 12” longer and put 10” brackets on it.
Gonna lower my back bunks a couple inches also so I don’t have to back in so far.
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Rgr that
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