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Discussion Starter #1
After going out a few times on the GOM I realized that I am going to have to seal that front hatch. Taking on water in big waves is no fun to mess with once you are off shore. I have seem post on various forums about using trim seal but having a hard time locating just what I need. I have seen and read plenty on using closed cell foam as well. Any help and info would be greatly appreciated. Btw my PA is a 2012.
 

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Are you sure that's where the water is coming in? I've taken the PA through its fair share of breakers and never had much of an issue with too much water in the hull. Yeah, some gets in there (maybe a half gallon or so by the end of the trip) but it's never been a noticable problem.
 

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I use that gray foam with a slit in the middle for insulating pipes and put it around the edge of the bucket. 100% leak proof.

It also keeps the bucket itself completely dry
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am pretty sure. I have taken trips out and only taken water over the bow and got a few gallons in the hull and a gallon or two in the front hatch. I go in the sound and the bay and don't take on any water. I hosed it down pretty good with the hose to allow the water to reflect back up towards the hatch lid to portal waves coming over and I got all kinds of water in it. Saw a few threads on SOL about it but didn't get any good hard info on materials to fix it. Was hoping someone local had luck fixing the issue. I have sprayed it from every angle and the front hatch has been the only major leaking point other than a little in the center tackle compartment. My last trip off shore I got into some 2 to 4's on the way out and some came over the bow. Got a few more gallons in the hull than I like. I had about 4 inches or so of water in the front box as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yakavelli, does your front box fit pretty tightly with the actual hull up front. I notice mine doesn't fit very tightly in a few spots. Almost like it is warped possibly. When the water goes down the channels on the side of the hatch and goes upwards it hits that space and goes right in.
 

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Yakavelli, does your front box fit pretty tightly with the actual hull up front. I notice mine doesn't fit very tightly in a few spots. Almost like it is warped possibly. When the water goes down the channels on the side of the hatch and goes upwards it hits that space and goes right in.
Yes...mine hugs the contour better than that.
 

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One says problem...the other 'no problem'.

Fact is, this is a major problem with these boats. They take on too much water in this area and it is not safe. Once the water comes through those gaps, and everybody knows there is a BIG gap in the front, the boat is not controllable. Sad that these boats have to be retrofitted for something that should have been taken care of in the factory.

Makes you think that these are designed as pond kayaks and not ocean kayaks. I like Hobies but this is just 'design by accounting'. Trying to save a buck, make a buck and the customer has to spend his fishing time sealing up the cracks.

They should offer a designed retrofit that you can buy or they give away. I wouldn't mind buying it but I don't want to do their design for them. This has been a trend for years in every industry. Just get it out there and let the customer come up with the modifications. Hobie anglers have been doing this since the get go.
 

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I merely said it hasn't been a problem for ME. A bigger concern for me is the rear hatch...the little round one. Water runs freely through that seal...even sand. Fishing in the rain allows way too much water to come in the back.

I, for one, stay away from the gulf unless the conditions are nice. I don't fight against the fury of nature in a little plastic boat. Plowing through a decent breaker or two is one thing but I'm not gonna fight the surf to get out. I can see how the front hatch could be a problem...maybe I just don't ALLOW it to be MY problem. I like flats fishing too and am always prepared for plan B if the gulf looks angry.

But I do agree with you 'slim...Hobie should take care of these things for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
For the money spent on these boats, I agree, simple issues that are BIG issues and possible hazards should not be normal when buying one. Inconsistency I have seen is ridiculous. Bought the wife a Native and they are just as bad. Heck I can't even lock in the drive due to such poor craftsmanship. And no response from them in the 6 weeks we have owned it. But that is another issue in itself.
 

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I use that gray foam with a slit in the middle for insulating pipes and put it around the edge of the bucket. 100% leak proof.

It also keeps the bucket itself completely dry
Please provide as much information on this Gray Foam as possible. Where did you purchase? What size ect....

This is a serious problem imo and the most simple functional fix should be shared by all. The only other option I saw consisted of drilling holes and attaching a strap to the bow in front of hatch and bring strap all the way down over hatch and attach below sail mast mount and secure tightly. This is not as ergonomic as I would like for you would have to run a Y strap to avoid loss of use of sail mast mount and you still would need additional foam around the hatch. The main benefit from this design is that once capsized the hatch remains waterproof even with the weight of the contents of the compartment resting on the hatch.

The last thing anyone needs while fishing in a kayak in the GOM in a less than desirable sea state is to take on water!
 

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Please provide as much information on this Gray Foam as possible. Where did you purchase? What size ect....

This is a serious problem imo and the most simple functional fix should be shared by all. The only other option I saw consisted of drilling holes and attaching a strap to the bow in front of hatch and bring strap all the way down over hatch and attach below sail mast mount and secure tightly. This is not as ergonomic as I would like for you would have to run a Y strap to avoid loss of use of sail mast mount and you still would need additional foam around the hatch. The main benefit from this design is that once capsized the hatch remains waterproof even with the weight of the contents of the compartment resting on the hatch.

The last thing anyone needs while fishing in a kayak in the GOM in a less than desirable sea state is to take on water!
This is another issue. You need to be aware of the weight of items in the front hatch. If you ever turtle the boat, these items will be bearing down on the hatch cover and without proper restraint, they will cause it to open and let a lot of water in. I know you are not supposed to turn the boat over but it happens and then you just have a tremendous amount of weight to contend with.
 

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I need to get some grass seed at HD tonight and ill take some picks of the exact product. There is a bit of a trick to cutting the foam the right lengths so it goes around the corners of the bucket corecktley. I'll measure and post so it will be easy for everyone. I would never go out in the gulf with the bucket without this mid personally.

Another thing to consider is that if you take the bucket out and close the front hatch it will seal well. The bucket is what causes the gaps where water gets in, because it does not match up eaxy enough with the hhhatc opening . The rim of the bucket pushes the top lid
Off of the seal so water gets in the hull through those little gaps from the bucket not matching up on the seal in certain areas. Then the top of the bucket just pushes up against the lid and those two materials can'jt don't creat a seal. So even if the bucket did match up exactly with the hatch seal and no water got into the hull you would still have a bucket full of water. The Foam seals both and everything your bucket stays 100% dry
 

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I need to get some grass seed at HD tonight and ill take some picks of the exact product. There is a bit of a trick to cutting the foam the right lengths so it goes around the corners of the bucket corecktley. I'll measure and post so it will be easy for everyone. I would never go out in the gulf with the bucket without this mid personally.

Another thing to consider is that if you take the bucket out and close the front hatch it will seal well. The bucket is what causes the gaps where water gets in, because it does not match up eaxy enough with the hhhatc opening . The rim of the bucket pushes the top lid
Off of the seal so water gets in the hull through those little gaps from the bucket not matching up on the seal in certain areas. Then the top of the bucket just pushes up against the lid and those two materials can'jt don't creat a seal. So even if the bucket did match up exactly with the hatch seal and no water got into the hull you would still have a bucket full of water. The Foam seals both and everything your bucket stays 100% dry

Thanks, I know I really appreciate your help on this for it has been a thorn since I purchased last fall
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mine must have been made before a holiday...... With the bucket out it still had some 1/2" gaps in some areas as can be seen in my pictures from before. I pulled the seal and went around it with the bucket. You can really see where it was much higher in a few places holding the bucket up as well as leaving large gaps for the lid. I had thought it was possibly warfare but after doing a bit of measuring it was quite apparent that it was poorly formed material. I ended up trimming off the high spots and now the bucket sits pretty well. I ordered some trim seal for the opening and I will use some closed cell foam inside the lid as well. I will post some pics once I get it finished.
 

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Now you are getting to it. Looks like you've gone to the 'root cause' and fixed that before fixing something that's not broken.

I thought about using some gasketing that is used to seal the truck of an automobile. Put that on top of the edges of the bucket so that it fits tight up against the hatch cover. Also, I've seen some guys that use straps and buckles on the middle of the back to keep it down tight. The bungees, on the corners, are not going to get it done.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That seal I ordered is a lot like the door seal on a truck but a bit more durable. The base is similar to the "seal" installed already but it had a rubber seal on top of that. I got the 1" seal to make up for any difference and then some. It should lay out far enough to form an otter seal as well so water can't even get up to the tub. But I am still going to put a closed cell foam in the top to seal the top of the tub. Still can't believe how poorly the rim was left. It was quite obvious as can be seen in the previous picture I posted. I took over a 1/2" off the center front and both side also had some high spots. Is this still an issue with the new models?
 
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