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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I need some diving weights. After pricing them the mold looked like a better option. I have the lead. But..... once I pour a weight the handle of the mold is nuclear hot. Anyone have ideas as to how to handle this thing? If I had 10 of them I'd just pour 10 and let them cool. But I have one. I'll hang up and listen.
 

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Once the lead hardens(doesn't take long) I take a wet rage and cool the mold with that multiple times , for smaller castings I work on a board to jet the lead out for the next pour
If you have a 2pc hinged mold that would work , I use wire cutter to grab the hot lead for removal , but needle nose would work
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Watching your video I'd use a good pair of vice grips to grip the handle to get the lead out for the next pour , welding glove would be better then what you have but still would feel the heat
The sooner you get the lead out the faster it will cool
 

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I pour lead all the time. Got a 5 gal bucket of wheel wts now . pm or call. be glad to help.
jack
 

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Anything wet around lead pouring will make it brittle and easy to crack
Jack
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I forgot to mention I have to whack the shit out of the mold to release the weight. I'm talking WHACK! I actually broke that marble slab doing that. So vice-grips wouldn't work. I guess I have to be patient and let each pour set up and cool. I hate patient.
 

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So I need some diving weights. After pricing them the mold looked like a better option. I have the lead. But..... once I pour a weight the handle of the mold is nuclear hot. Anyone have ideas as to how to handle this thing? If I had 10 of them I'd just pour 10 and let them cool. But I have one. I'll hang up and listen.
Why does it have no heat resistant handle? My big cannon ball molds do. I would say make a handle or get a pipe to slide on and off to flip it. Bent then end of the pipe to where it's sort of squared to grip the edges of the handle so it don't spin?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Why does it have no heat resistant handle? My big cannon ball molds do. I would say make a handle or get a pipe to slide on and off to flip it. Bent then end of the pipe to where it's sort of squared to grip the edges of the handle so it don't spin?
I was thinking along the same lines. Maybe cutting a 2x4 down and pounding it onto the handle. I need to pour about 20 more of these for a project. Might try that or some thick welding glove. But that handle gets hell hot.
 
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I was thinking along the same lines. Maybe cutting a 2x4 down and pounding it onto the handle. I need to pour about 20 more of these for a project. Might try that or some thick welding glove. But that handle gets hell hot.
Welding gloves are a must even with the smaller molds when your really going at it.. But 20 more! WOW I'm not messing with you with what you have poured and 20 more that's a lot of bodies! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Welding gloves are a must even with the smaller molds when your really going at it.. But 20 more! WOW I'm not messing with you with what you have poured and 20 more that's a lot of bodies! LOL
Well I'm fat. It takes 10 x 10 lbs to keep me on the bottom. Where I am wrapping pilings. Plus I'm using them to weight down my boat lift cables (it is working but need twice the weight). And there's that pesky ex-wife also.....
 
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Anything wet around lead pouring will make it brittle and easy to crack
Jack
Not to mention that any little bit of water remaining in the mold prior to the next pour will explode as soon as the molten lead touches it, resulting in the pourer being coated in a very adhesive layer of very hot lead.:eek:
 

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Well I'm fat. It takes 10 x 10 lbs to keep me on the bottom. Where I am wrapping pilings. Plus I'm using them to weight down my boat lift cables (it is working but need twice the weight). And there's that pesky ex-wife also.....
Lmao. Pesky ex wife You gona let go of them numbers to that catfish hole when you get it chummed up. LOL
 

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Not to mention that any little bit of water remaining in the mold prior to the next pour will explode as soon as the molten lead touches it, resulting in the pourer being coated in a very adhesive layer of very hot lead.:eek:
Not only that. Had a drunk Uncle that grab a handful of wheel weights out of a bucket that had been rained in. Pitched that in the pot with probably close to 10lbs of all ready melted lead. Small bomb when off when we gathered ourselves and realized we were not all burnt to hell we notice the roof of the carport was on fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not only that. Had a drunk Uncle that grab a handful of wheel weights out of a bucket that had been rained in. Pitched that in the pot with probably close to 10lbs of all ready melted lead. Small bomb when off when we gathered ourselves and realized we were not all burnt to hell we notice the roof of the carport was on fire.
Hey ya'll. I'm very carefull around the hot pot. My setup is ******* but properly vented and safe. Can't stress enough how important it is to be safe around molten lead. I have the scars to attest.
EDIT: My Red-neyck was starred out. What boolsheet.
 
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Pour it with mold on a piece of metal when lead is solid pick mold up with vice grips turn it over and tap it on the piece of metel or concrete. The lead will come out, repour and repeate procedure. Been doing that for many many years. For deep drop weights. And dive weights. I use a propane tourch to melt and cast iron pots with wooden handles. I find most of the lead while Diving. Sinkers, weight belts.
Live on west side pensacola. pm if you want to see my setup.
 

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as far as getting lead out. I have had some luck by using a small candle and sooting the mold with carbon. getting the mold black bu burning the candle under it to make lead removal easier, it creates a almost non stick surface.
Don't need to do the coating when the lead hardends. It shrinks enough to make it loose. Only takes at most a minute. Small fan blowing on poured mold also helps cooling and shrinking. Helps to get the mold hot before pour.
 

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Welding gloves fer sure....the mold being hot helps so the lead doesn't solidify as quick (prob not big deal with dive weights but small fish weights it does)....I just got a few more molds last week, aint used em yet though....
 

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Don't need to do the coating when the lead hardends. It shrinks enough to make it loose. Only takes at most a minute. Small fan blowing on poured mold also helps cooling and shrinking. Helps to get the mold hot before pour.
I was just trying to help him with some ideas like he asked for. Really don't need all the contradictions and stuff. I have molded a-lot of lead and some times and some molds it really makes a difference. There is also some graphite spray that can be used Sometimes it helps and sometimes it does not. I know every situation and mold is a little different. He was just asking for some possible help. That mold is pretty hot and may expand and contract more than the lead causing it to bind. I dont know just is one hot mold from his video. Not trying to start anything I just get tired of all the criticisms when some just want to brainstorm some ideas to help like he asked for. Seemed like a simple question and was trying to give a simple may help
 
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