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The Yakslayer
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590 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm posting this embarrassment to help any others looking to mount their FF transducer. This picture is after removing my transducer that just didn't seem right. I had what seemed to be accurate bottom returns, but I long suspected I just was not seeing the fish I should have been seeing. But it wasn't until after I saw several beast red snapper and a school of large spades under my yak two weeks ago, with nothing on the screen, that I knew I definitely had to redo my transducer setting.

Talk about a 'Duh!' moment when I saw the underside of it. The thing is, I took a lot of care to watch all the how-to videos and squeeze the Goop so no bubbles form, but my mistake wasn't in any of that. I didn't let the Goop dry on the pool noodle cutout I used to contain the Goop. Unbeknownst to me, it mostly leaked out and formed that huge bubble on the side of the ducer in the process. Those small bubbles I swear were not there during the isntall and I'm going to attribute to something I saw recently in another thread that the Goop can 'boil' while it sets if the temperature is over 80 degrees. I don't know if that's really true, but that's my only explanation at this point.

I'll be resetting it this time using Duct Seal from Home Depot.

BTW, it was a royal [email protected] getting this goop mount off. I was going to use acetone but didn't have to in the end. I used a putty knife and did scratch up the bottom some, but it came off ok. In all of this, I did learn that acetone is safe on your yaks for cleaning up stuff. I wouldn't leave it sit, but the folks at Liquid Surf and Sail said they use it all the time to clean up yaks if they arrive scuffed or marred up. Other forums out there talk about how it'll break down the goop, so it works.
 

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Videographer
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1,735 Posts
intresting thread.....just curious about the duct seal.....something recommended to you? ......I have only used it for duct work, and It is water soluable ( at least when applied). If its the same stuff I have used, it also has strands in it for reinforcement ......might cause problems?? Is good old 100 percent silicone not a good conductor?
Again...just curious, never heard of anyone using duct seal like that.:thumbsup:
 

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Red Solo Kayak
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1,269 Posts
i was wondering why you werent picking up those spades when mine kept goin off like crazy. had to turn mine off cause it was annoying as shit.
 

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The Yakslayer
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590 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
intresting thread.....just curious about the duct seal.....something recommended to you? ......I have only used it for duct work, and It is water soluable ( at least when applied). If its the same stuff I have used, it also has strands in it for reinforcement ......might cause problems?? Is good old 100 percent silicone not a good conductor?
Again...just curious, never heard of anyone using duct seal like that.:thumbsup:

I did read of several people that used electrical putty. Some called it duct seal. After seeing a video of it done, I realized they're talking about the same thing. It is found in the electrical department at Home Depot. It comes in a malleable, moldable brick. It doesn't appear to be the same thing you're talking about... it doesn't have strands and doesn't look to be water soluble. Just to be sure I'm soaking some in a container. I may try to test it tomorrow morning in the sound before Sunday's trip.

Some of the sources I used...


http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=34526

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=6125.0

Either way, I'll test it out this weekend and let everyone know how it works. If I'm not satisfied, I have another idea.
 

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The Yakslayer
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590 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
No cure time. It's ready when you place the transducer in it. I'm certain this will work, but I have ideas to do a sealed, 'wet mount' eventually. Good thing duct seal comes off easy.
 

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Videographer
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1,735 Posts
Cool! never used that stuff! Looks like it is really just holding the Transducer in place, and creating a little resorvoir to hold enough water to bridge the gap. I like that you can redo it without any tools. Wetmounting seems like it would be better, but with a kayak , probably no single solution will be ideal.
Thanks for the duck seal info!:thumbsup:
 

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Registered
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247 Posts
I used the electrical putty and have had no problems other than it takes about 20-30 minutes to get an accurate water temp. I store/transport my kayak upside down and the putty has not let lose. Quick and easy to use.
 

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The Yakslayer
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590 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I don't pay much attention to the water temp, but I did notice on Sunday that my returns were inconsistent. It seemed as if I lost signal as I went deeper. I had to set my sensitivity to 100% to get a normal picture in 50 feet of water. I wasn't seeing fish on the screen for several hours and then I started to. Going in shallower on the return trip, I had to adjust the sensitivity back down.

It is probably worth another try to see happens, but I've decided to try something else altogether.
 

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10 Posts
Thanks for experience you had. I will be doing my first install and would not have thought of the temperature. I will be sure to do in evening in the shade. Thanks.
 

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I like Lexel, which is sold exclusively by ACE Hardware. It is very flexible, and you don't have to worry about bubbles forming like other products. It just takes longer to cure, like one to two days. :D
 

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Hey, Great post....thanks for the info....just went thru this myself.... I went to humminbird and bought the Kayak kit MHX XMK http://youtu.be/QLDIWtCI-sc
It had a prebuilt well and a velcro strap to hold the transducer down. The most important part was getting the well attached to the Kayak Hull and letting it cure. Before putting the "grease" in the well and putting the velcro on the kit.....but i think your right about the heat and storage of the Kayak . Thanks again for the info...tight lines....
 
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