[JLFishing2214]

So I was doing the 100 hour service on my Yamaha. It was the first time I did the service on my own and I actually enjoyed doing it myself because I get a better idea of the health of the motor. Everything went great until I got the very last step in replacing the engine mount anode. So the place I went to last time must have used a impact drill to put these bolts in. When I took the first one out it was tough and looked like it was stripped. The other three bolts broke after trying everything to take them out.

How do I go about taking these broken bolts out and rethreading the holes for the anode? Any troubles or concerns I might see by rethreading?

 

[Murphy's Law]

Ez out

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[60hertz]

I’d liberally spray the bolts wthoroughly with CRC Freeze Off and let it sit for a bit, like several hours.

Then, I’d spray again and use some stout pliers - like some vice grip style.

Start by turning the bolt left, then a tad to the right, then left. Spray again and then, if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to back them out.

I recently had to do a similar process on a bolt that sheared off on the muffler of my pressure washer.

From the looks of it, you probably have enough bolt sticking out that you might be able to use this method.

If that doesn’t work, it’s time for an EZ Out.

 

[Murphy's Law]

I didn't even notice how much bolt you have hanging out. Tac a old socket to that thing and run it on out of there.

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[seabiscuit]

Lucky that much is sticking out. I've had the exact same problem happen on my Yamahas. (more than one broke before I could put tef gel on them).
In your case, I'm pretty sure you can spray it with PB blaster or whatever brand you choose, let it sit over night, then spray again. Get small vice grips on it and break it free. If it breaks flush with the bottom of the motor, then, using a tiny cobalt bit, you can drill it out, working up to a bit that cleans the hole out. I've done that and it is not that bad to do. There is plenty of metal in that area to work with and you are not going to hurt anything by drilling into the metal in there. You can buy new 10mm bolts at the hardware store to replace those.

PIA but very doable. Take you time, wear eye protection while laying down and drilling straight up.

Good luck with it.

 

[KnotSure]

In that situation I would weld some nuts on what you got.
While the stud is hot, use a paraffin candle or wax and push it in where the stud enters the bracket.
Work it back and forth with a wrench and add more wax and heat until you get your desired results.
If that doesn't work, go to plan B.

 

[Snagged Line]

Whatever you do, do not clamp those threads with vice grips yet…
It looks like you have enough threads exposed that you can use two “Jam nuts “ on each stud if you can dress the leading edge of the bolt enough to get them started… A jam nut is about 1/3....1/2 I have the thickness of a standard nut....,
Put the first one on and slightly snug it against the motor and then put the second one on and run it up until the entire stud is flush with the outer edge of the second nut.... twist the first one counterclockwise with one wrench while twisting the second nut clockwise with the second so that they bind together tightly… Then with your wrench on the first nut, gently back them out after having applied some of the previously mentioned penetrating oil‘s etc.…… Good luck


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[reel_crazy]

lots of good suggestions but i will add a few...


i doubt your problem was from over torquing but rather corrosion between the bolt and casting .. not sure what product yamaha recommends here .. but some sort of never seize should be used..



1. the bolts are pointing down, and it appears that there is not a lot of room to get to the ones next to the transom...

this makes it difficult to have any success with trying to get any sort of spray on product to work unless you can flip the hull over...


i think your best bet would be to try the wax method although what you want is to gently warm the casting right near the bolt which will cause the wax to get sucked up inside .. very much like sweating a copper fitting ... this might also work with some of the sprays as well tho the key is you want the casting to be warmer than the bolt.. and here we have to worry about not damaging your transom...


2. i think tacking a nut on and then gently rocking the bolt along with additional wax might work.. the rapid heating of the bolt may help to break it free...


3. it appears you could mount the anode using 1 new bolt and getting at least one perhaps 2 nuts on to secure it... i.e. leave it for the next guy....


for sure you want to get a good tap to chase the threads ... no hf crap



rich

 

[Boardfeet]

when you replace the bolts be sure to use some anti seize compound..
You can get it copper or lead based.both are conductive and will allow the sacrificial anode to do its job..
Next timethey will come out easily.

 

[seabiscuit]

when you get them out, let us know which method worked