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I'm looking for a good used 3/4 ton diesel truck. I'm new to diesels and don't want to buy a truck with a bunch of hidden issues. I've seen tons of references to having the engine bulletproofed (mostly with F250s) but have also heard it with GMC/Chevy as well. Has anyone had this done by a local shop? Any input on the need for this or how many miles an F250 or 2500 diesel could go before it would need a major overhaul like bulletproofing would be much appreciated. Who are the quality diesel mechanics around P'cola?

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I bulletproofed my 6.0 after the warranty ran out on it. Went through 7 turbo's under warranty with the EGR installed. Now pushing 200K and haven't had the first issue with it since bulletproofing at around 104K. Did the studs, EGR bypass not removal because I didn't want the check engine light on, blue spring and new oil cooler. If turbo ever goes out again, going to put in a 4 inch downpipe.
 

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I had a head gasket leak and a little bit of work done by Spoolin Up at about 200k. Runs like a champ. Mine is a 6.0
 

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My neighbor has his 6.0 bullet proofed and swears by it. He tows a big pile camper all over the country.

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Bullet proof is actually a brand, but has become the standard term for fixing the inherent Ford 6.0 problems. Full “bullet proofing” will cost you 6-8k if you do it all and have someone else do it. The whole cab has to be lifted off the truck to reveal the engine. If you buy a 6.0, I’d suggest you ask for paperwork of all the work.
 

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Bullet proof is actually a brand, but has become the standard term for fixing the inherent Ford 6.0 problems. Full “bullet proofing” will cost you 6-8k if you do it all and have someone else do it. The whole cab has to be lifted off the truck to reveal the engine. If you buy a 6.0, I’d suggest you ask for paperwork of all the work.
they actually found a way around having to take the cab off spooney. Think you have to be a hell of a lot more flexible than I am but they did mine without removing it. Had to do with replacing the head bolts with studs. I paid a tad over 6K to have mine done but that was 10 years ago so it's probably more (a lot more) expensive now.
 

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they actually found a way around having to take the cab off spooney. Think you have to be a hell of a lot more flexible than I am but they did mine without removing it. Had to do with replacing the head bolts with studs. I paid a tad over 6K to have mine done but that was 10 years ago so it's probably more (a lot more) expensive now.
Yup, have a pic of mine being done with the cab on.
 

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Stepsons new 2006 f250 6.0 had egr delete and head studs done prior to us purchasing it. It had slightly under 200k when we bought it in Jan. I added the blue spring kit and it quietened the engine and made it a little more responsive. That is pretty much considered bulletproofing on the 6.0. The 7.3 is pretty dang bulletproof out of the box. The 6.4,... .well you should pretty much run away from the 6.4. The 6.7 can have the fuel system bulletproofed and some emmissions stuff deleted. From what I understand on the 6.7's the fuel pump will grenade and send debris through the entire fuel system wrecking your injectors, lines...etc. The bulletproofing on it catches all the debris before it wrecks everything. From what I understand on the 6.7 fuel pump issue it's a matter of when the fuel pump goes as opposed to 'if'.
 

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I’m glad to know they can do it with the cab on. That might make it easier for a DIY. Then again...sometimes it is better to pay someone who has been there before.
 

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I’m glad to know they can do it with the cab on. That might make it easier for a DIY. Then again...sometimes it is better to pay someone who has been there before.

Yep, I consider myself pretty handy mechanically but there's no way I would have done this by myself.
 
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The most important thing is to delete/bypass the egr cooler and replace the oil cooler at the same time so you have an oil cooler that has never been abused by the egr cooler.
 

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This is probably a stupid question but why would they not build it that way from the factory? Trying to meet regulations I’m guessing?
 
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I talked to a guy who tuned and deleted his Duramax... Said he spent some change (never said how much, guessing a ton) but his tuner has a setting that pumps out 750 HP!!! I'd love to line up with some street racers with a 3/4 ton and smoke em!!!


Check out this beast!!!!


 
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This is probably a stupid question but why would they not build it that way from the factory? Trying to meet regulations I’m guessing?
Correct.
The EPA is supposed to weigh cost versus benefit but they don’t.
Radical greenies have infested the EPA for quite a while and that’s why we have incredibly stupid ideas like Recirculating a portion of the engines 1200+ degree exhaust back through the intake manifold, but attempting to use engine coolant to cool it down before running it back through.
The result is the coolant gets destroyed and clogs up the rest of the cooling system and the engine oil overheats, the cylinder heats overheat, etc. I can go on and on but I think we all get the point of the idiocy.

Rant over.
 
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