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So I was an asshat to "Brnbser" mod last night.. I misunderstood a PM, where he was actually trying to be helpful.. Anyways had a long day yesterday and read it too quickly and took it the wrong way. So someone buy him a beer for me or something!



Anyways on another note.. first day out boating yesterday and apparently my starboard side exhaust manifold has corroded shut or something.. port side was working fortunately and kept the motor safe, but the other side literally caught fire and started melting all the gaskets and rubber elbows etc.. so after my 2hr45m tow back to shore, it was low tide at the new launch in my neighborhood. Backed my F150 all the way down to the tailgate underwater and the bumper boards for the trailer were still a good 2 1/2in out of water.. after manhandling the boat onto the trailer, which had sunk down in the mud now.. burnt the hell out of my clutch attempting to get it out.. with no success.. had to call my buddy all the way out here last night around 10pm to get it out.. even his massive 4x4 F250 didnt exactly enjoy pulling it out of the quicksand.. oh well! Well no one got hurt, and once TowboatUS hooked up, me being the driver of the boat all day was actually able to pop my first cold one and enjoy the weather for the ride back. Everytime Ive been towed in I instantly think, hell this is a perfect trolling speed.. or wheres the tube.. =) So safe boating guys!
 

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not a big deal man, I'd probably be a bit short fused after a day like that myself.......was it your Bayliner, by the description, it sounds kinda like you'vegot abad manifold or riser on that side. if it's leaking water into the exhaust before the riser turn down, it will cause it to heat up like that and burn you exhaust valves and blow the head gasket on that side...... with it being an '08 boat, is it still under warranty?
 

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Hey, its not that Bayliner that was for sale, that was my fathers boat.. this is my personal bayliner, its a 2000 21ft bowrider.. Im pretty sure its the manifold.. got my hands on a new one for a good deal. Hopefully thats all.. Thanks again.
 

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Neptune calls me "Daddy"
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sosmarine (4/12/2010)Hope you are replacing manifold and riser/elbow on both sides.
A question... on my 26' Shamrock the starboard manifold and riser has always gotten clogged much quicker than the port side.

I base replacement on the old rule "If you can keep your hand on the elbow for 10 seconds the manifold and elbow do not have to be replaced."

I've waited too long once and the starboard side blew out the hose just behind the elbow. That elbow was failing the 10 second touch test and I knew it.

I'm sure it's based on plumbing, but the port side elbow has been NEVER close to hot.

The difference in blockage in the port and starboard side has always been dramatic.

I did not replace the port side the lasttime (a year ago) because I felt the port side was still doing fine... should I have forked over the extra $$$ to replace both?

2000 Shamrock 260 Express, GM 5.7 liter PCM with about 800 hours, gas model, RWC.

Thanks,

Jim
 

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Jim T's sworn enemy!
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Always replace the set Jim. Its probably cheaper to buy a set of risers and manifolds than individually. Heat differance in the risers has to do with the way the water flows into the thermostat housing. Example: my 4.3l has the intake water hose coming from the left(thats port for you squids)side of the t-stat housing delivering water to the right(starboard,ya know the other side)manifold and riser and water pump first,then travels thru the engine block(the runny thingy)before it makes it to the port(left turn Clyde) manifold and riser. Cool sea water does come from the t-stat housing directly to feed the manifold and riser that gets cooled last but not as great a rate. Hope that clears that up Clyde!
 

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general rule of thumb is to expect to replace them every 3 to 5 yrs and sometimes longer dependant on how well you flush it and how much use it's had......your problem sounds more engine than manifold

the pcm 5.7 engines are from a GM design and typically several yrs earlier form of car/truck engine that's redesigned an put in service as a marine model.......the early to mid 90's GM production engines had some problematic heads that would cause the exact same type heat issues out of one side.....they weren't all this way but several that I've worked on would have slow developing cracks in the combustion chamber on one of the cylinders.......it normally took several yrs for it to develop before it caused a problem, but I even saw a dealer replacement engine on a '94 that had the same problem (installed in 99 and had no visible problem until '07) the quickest way to check this is if you have had your plugs in there for at least 50 hrs or so of use with the engine at full operating temp, pull them and look for one that's cleaner than the others.

edit: with yours being rwc, which has somemodifications of the heads over the fwc, it may not have the same problems as the street motor but it worth checking out.......
 

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Neptune calls me "Daddy"
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Thank you ladies...:letsdrink:letsdrink:letsdrink

I learn something everyday on this board.

I'm due for a tune-up and I'll check the plugs after 50 hours. I'll replace both manifolds from now on too.

Jim
 
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