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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok having a problem with the electrical items in the center console of a 17' Key West. I've been having an issue with certain items coming on and off during a ride (GPS losing power on a good wave, horn working only half the time, etc). Well took a look at the fuse panel under the center console and noticed it was pretty corroded along with some of the female tab connectors to it, explains to me why items would work only have the time. So bought a new fuse panel and replaced some of the corroded female connectors (cut off the old one and put on the new and crimped it to make sure it had a good connection. Put on dielectric grease on the male connections and put on the new female connections. Hooked up pos/neg and made sure it had current (12 V), the motor turned over (another good sign) and started flipping the switches on the console to test them and ... nada. No nav lights, horn, GPS, aerator, bilge, etc. Any idea of what is going on?, does it sound like I need to revamp all of the lines and connections under the console?

Any and all help will be appreciated.
 

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Get a volt meter and check the accessory side of each fuse to see if your getting power to that point, if you have power there check it on the end of the wire where it connects to gps, horn, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok a small update, I tested the primary pos/neg wires leading to the fuse box (none of the accessories). When I test them without being hooked up I get a good 12 volts. When I bolt them onto the fuse box, nada. I'm grabbing the meter and running through each accessory connection and see where I'm at. I'm wondering of the metal was broken within the fuse box or if the ground seat is faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update #3

Ok forget the broken fuse panel, I have positive connections on all of the accessory points through it. It's gotta be another point. I'll have to go through everything and see where the break is.

The only thing I can think is that maybe it's not enough power and there's something that's acting like a 4 volt resistor in the fuse panel (not an actual resistor but something acting like a resistor). I'm using a meter that I use on making computer boards and I'm showing 7-8 volts on all accessories instead of 12 volts like from from the raw battery output and the leads to the fuse panel. I know I should have thought of this first but I don't do much marine electronics and didn't want to assume it's just the same as computer electronics.
 

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Pictures sure would help.

Fuse panels are usually wired to positive. Your switches are normally wired in line positive, with the switch breaking the curcuit. You should have a common ground bus bar near the fuse panel. Make sure those connections are good also. Follow the black wire from one of your accessories to the find the common ground bus bar. If those are good, you will need to do resistance check on conductors.
 

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If you have voltage on the wires not hooked up, then you have no voltage when hooked up, then it tells me you have either a bad connection (corrosion build up, bad end connection) , bad wire, bad fuse, battery switch connection issue, or loose connection at the battery. Start at the battery and clean the ends. May have to scrape them or replace them if there is a lot of build up. Check the main feed fuse at the battery, then go to the fuse panel.
 

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With my son's 1994 1720 Key West I replaced the crappy open factory fuse panel with a Blue Sea fuse block and replaced all the non tinned factory wiring.

In your case I would replace the fuse panel and all the connectors with marine grade heat shrink terminals. You already know how to measure resistance and it is showing up on your wiring b/c of some of the connections or even the wiring itself.

With the non tinned wire you have the corrosion could easily wick up the wiring from the terminals. Like already mentioned make sure you have full battery voltage (not just 12v's) coming into the feed for the fuse panel. Then check each circuit leaving the fuse panel with your meter grounded to a known good ground. Then you can start checking each of the circuit grounds.
Make sure your battery is fully charged and look for that same battery voltage on each circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry guys for the late reply.

I figured it out today, after giving it time to sit and let my mind not work on it came back and checked every segment of the pos/neg wires running from the kicker battery. Wiggled the connections on the battery to the fuse panel and everything lit up like a X-mas tree. Turned out when I cleaned them a month ago the nut worked lose again and was only giving a partial connection. I re-tightened the nut over the connections and works like a champ. Will be going out to field test the boat to make sure nothing rattles loose. Thanks for the posts and giving me ideas. Just had a duh moment.
 

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Great News..! Use SS Nylock Nuts on the battery cables so they don't come loose again. Don't use the wing nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Ocean Master, it's a extender post with a smaller nut and lock washer but don't want to over torque it so I'll try the nylock nuts. Thanks again everyone!
 

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You can also use 2 nuts on each side to lock in down that's how i have mine works good never had either come lose...:thumbsup: By the way I have the same boat but its a 95 love it great for really shallow water less then a foot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Do you just pole through the area when it's that shallow? I usually start worrying about the lower unit on the engine when it gets below 2 feet. I trim it up of course but don't carry a pole around so was curious how you handle that.
 
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