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another help request. i have only 150ft of rope on board and know that is way too short for 100ft of water. i want to get about 200 more foot. my question is what methods do you guys use for storage/deployment. i have a 20ft mako with a decent size locker UNDER THE BOW PLATFORM. so there is only a hole through the platform to feed rope through. but w/o a windlass, this seems very cumbersome to feed 300ft of rope through.

so need suggestions/ideas for reasonable anchor rope storage that doesnt tangle up the rope ever time i use it.

some pics to help visualize.first pic is before my restore.



 

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We use a plasticwash tub, thetype with rope handles, to put both the anchor line(600' of 1/2")and the anchor and chain in. Put it where ever isn't in the way when not in use.
 

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i guess thinking about it, the metal cap on my deck with room for rope to go through is for pulling the rope through? if so, then i would have to clip on the anchor and chain each outing,i dont sea any other way to do this.

or using the wash tub method, i just pull it all out and anchors away? i guess i could go to the extra effort of cutting a hatch on top of the deck and pulling anchor and chain through it like modern boats? or would that decrease the strength of the hull?

hey x shark, any ideas?
 

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If it were mine I would split the Nav lights, one on each side, and install an anchor davit with a chain latch. Then run the rope thru the hoss pipe into the locker.
 

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sosmarine (10/4/2007)If it were mine I would split the Nav lights, one on each side, and install an anchor davit with a chain latch. Then run the rope thru the hoss pipe into the locker.
thats what i was thinking by adding cat eye lights. i have a davit bar i never used. i guess that would mean my anchor would be outside the whole time? or should i keep anchor inlocker and attachatfishing site?i tried looking on CG site for regulations on these type of lights but found none. just have to have them. know of any restrictions?
 

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Other than being visable from the front, and side like you can now, there are no regulations afaik. I just keep our anchor rope 250' in a bucket. It barely fits, I was taught, and realized, that keeping it like this, just feeding it in(any type of bucket, tub, compartment) is the easiest and when deploying anchor, it doesnt get all tangled up! If it were me and you didnt want to use a bucket or tub, I would put a hatch in the top to just feed it all in as you pull anchor, and might as well make it big enough to store anchor in. Feeding that much rope through one of those cap things would just not work well!
 

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Your life will be much easier with a hatch installed Fred.



You may very well have enough room in that locker to store anchor rode, anchor and a 9in polyball for anchor retrieval.



Once the hole is cut, the core needs to be backcut and filled with epoxy/cabisol mix. This will give you a firm edge around the opening and keep out any water to the wood core.



Seal the hatch when installing the frame with 3M 101. Do not use 5200 or 4200 on it.



Use a router bit like this.



 

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Something I forgot to mention.



The way the hatch is hinged. Put the hinge on the port side, so that the hatch lays open to the Port side. Don't install it with the hinge fore or aft. It's always in the way when they do that. Either it's in the way of the cleat in front of the hatch opening or it's laid aft where you would be standing and dropping the rode into the locker.



I first saw a hatch installed in a Tera many years ago that laid to Port. It made things Soooo easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks bobby, i was thinking of adding the hatch. yes, there is lots (sorta) of room under that bow platform. i have a router bit like that. i used it on my floor livewell covers when i cut them in half and added piano hinge so i wouldnt have to lift them out to access storage/livewell. made a big mess but it works.

and thanks for the port location idea. hatch opening to port would even make putting the anchor in ezier since the hatch would be longest that way. now to find a hatch cheep. any suggestions?
 

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If and when you find a decent hatch for not a lot of money, let me know. I am in need of putting an anchor hatch up front as well. That's the only thing I don't like about my boat. No anchor storage up front. But there is plenty of room for a hatch and storage under the bow of my boat as well. I don't know why they didn't put a hatch there from the factory.

Jon
 

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There are a bunch of different manufactures out there. Bomar, TH marine and others.



I actually like the TH marine double seal units. BUT they are still not totally watertite. The fasteners are hidden when the hatch is closed and they are decent units.





http://www.thmarine.com/product.cfm?PRID=6



This is a TH Marine hatch sold under Cabelas.



http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...&parentType=index&indexId=cat21314&hasJS=true



Here are some more to look at.



http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t..._cat=www.dogpile.com&cm_pla=N/A&cm_ite=netcon
 

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X-Shark (10/5/2007)Your life will be much easier with a hatch installed Fred.

You may very well have enough room in that locker to store anchor rode, anchor and a 9in polyball for anchor retrieval.

Once the hole is cut, the core needs to be backcut and filled with epoxy/cabisol mix. This will give you a firm edge around the opening and keep out any water to the wood core.

Seal the hatch when installing the frame with 3M 101. Do not use 5200 or 4200 on it.

Use a router bit like this.

Why not 5200? the idea of hatch door to port makes alot sense thanks for throwing that out there

chris

 

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Chris 5200 is a much more permanent material and is a product that is over used. People think that it is the fix all. I'll tell you that it it is also a PITA product.



Suppose the hatch needs to be removed for some reason? Hardware fails or hinge broken. This stuff CAN tear gellcoat off of fiberglass as well as the effort and prying tools that can cause more damage to the boat.



I don't even use 5200 for thru hull's in the bottom of a boat. I use 4200 Fast.
 
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