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Tangle Master
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Discussion Starter #1
Pulled the cap on the V20 this morning. Not good. She will need all new stringers and a transom core. I intended to do the transom but I am building an outrigger bracket. I did not think my stringers were in such bad shape.
I have been cutting the foam from around the gas tank with the chainsaw, and hopefully the fuel tank is not corroded out, but so far I have been pulling the most putrid smelling water soaked foam out of the gas tank coffin.

Any place a stringer meets a floor (cross stringer) the stringer is broken. Also finding alot of rot. I have seen this in TWO Wellcrafts now. Would it be beneficial to double on the thickness of the stringers?
 

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OCD Reel Service/Repair
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6,173 Posts
I think with using todays applications and materials you wouldn't need to over do anything. X-Shark can chime in on what to use.
 

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Tangle Master
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Discussion Starter #3
Also I should mention that I want it built as strong as possible. The possibility exists that in the future a 225/250hp outboard or twins will be hung.
 

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OCD Reel Service/Repair
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That would be nice. They are great boats. I fished out of a new one for about 3 years that was my friends boat. The ride is like nothing else.
 

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stonecoldshooter
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My friend replaced the stringers on his a few years ago. Seems to be a common problem with the V20. But man, what a tough little boat. And dry as hell for a sled that small.
 

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Tangle Master
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Discussion Starter #6
Why Wellcraft did not seal where they cut the stringers, is a big mystery. If I did not love the boat, I would not spend the amount of money I am about to on it. But when I am done It will last at least twice as long as what the factory did. Now for some pics.

Lifting the cap, with scaffold, 4x6s, a winch and a couple comealongs. :thumbsup:





Little transom rot.





Broken stringers





Gas tank foam removal with a CHAINSAW. :thumbup:





Now this really upsets me. Why did they cut the stringers down?? Make the splashwell fit around the stringers! NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!!

 

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OCD Reel Service/Repair
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Actually it doesn't look too bad. At least when it's cleaned up and repaired you'll have a nice ride with all new hoses and wiring. Done the right way.
 

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Tangle Master
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Discussion Starter #8
Right now I am thinking tear all the stringers and bulkheads out and replace it all. I had pure hell breaking the fuel tank loose of the hull, because I could not pry on anything. It all is a flimsy mess.

Fuel tank out.



Fuel tank coffin minus a bulkhead I removed to get the chainsaw under the tank.

 

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I have a 85 v20 I am parting out if you need anything or make a good deal on the whole thing
 

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Right now I am thinking tear all the stringers and bulkheads out and replace it all. I had pure hell breaking the fuel tank loose of the hull, because I could not pry on anything. It all is a flimsy mess.
The tool of choice for that is A "Digging Bar".

Be very careful in your thinking and doing. taking all the stringers out is like taking the bones out of your leg. the bottom of the hull can get flimsy and if tour not careful you can form a hook in the hull when you put the new stuff in. Then the boat will perform like a pig. I talked to a guy at the BSH party that has that in a hull.
Building a full cradle to support it would be a good idea.

That water in the foam is what attacks the outside of the alum tank. This is the reason for Coal Tar Epoxying the outside of the new tank.

Some will say get air down there and do not foam it in. But there is a problem. There is no way to circulate air down there.
 

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OCD Reel Service/Repair
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The foam and tank look like they never got wet. That's a very good sign.
 

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Tangle Master
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Discussion Starter #13
The foam and tank look like they never got wet. That's a very good sign.
I have a t shirt in the trash that says otherwise. :censored: I hit some wet foam with the chainsaw on the starboard side of the tank, and it stunk worse than road kill. I hate the putrid smell of rotten saltwater and I got a nice coating of it.
 

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Tangle Master
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Discussion Starter #14
The tool of choice for that is A "Digging Bar".

Be very careful in your thinking and doing. taking all the stringers out is like taking the bones out of your leg. the bottom of the hull can get flimsy and if tour not careful you can form a hook in the hull when you put the new stuff in. Then the boat will perform like a pig. I talked to a guy at the BSH party that has that in a hull.
Building a full cradle to support it would be a good idea.

That water in the foam is what attacks the outside of the alum tank. This is the reason for Coal Tar Epoxying the outside of the new tank.

Some will say get air down there and do not foam it in. But there is a problem. There is no way to circulate air down there.
X-Shark I was planning to coal tar epoxify the fuel tank whether it be a new one or the one I took out. I have read an article on installing alum tanks, and supposedly the wet foam blocks air from the alum surface, which leads to corrosion. I will include a pic of a fuel tank from an 18 Fisherman, and you can clearly see it only corroded where the foam was. I am still not sure how to reinstall a new tank, I do not think I want to foam it in, the article I read suggested strips of starboard under the tank bonded with 5200.

What is the proper cradle design? Something as simple as trailer bunks that run the length of the hull, or something more complex?

Would one of yall be interested in looking at it, and telling me if I am going overboard replacing all the stringers up to the cabin? I think it is worse than the pictures make it look.
 

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Tangle Master
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Discussion Starter #15
Why dont you fill the stringers full of arjay? The stuff is supposed to be better than new.
I am considering it. I just do not know enough about it. Its a pourable ceramic, and in my mind I see it breaking.
 

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I've owned a bay boat with a hook......you might as well throw it in the garbage........the more speed you try to achieve...the farther the bow will dig!!!!!!! Some little river boats are designed with small hooks so you can power them with smaller motors and they will come on plane. good luck with the project. I had a v-20 hull dual console and i loved it. :thumbsup:
 

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Making good progress there- I wasn't brave enough to use the chain saw!

Getting the wet foam out will definitely lighten the hull, but consider your strength to weight ratio in repairs. Overbuilding may not be as good as careful building, and a lighter boat will run more efficiently and faster with less hp.

3x on supporting the hull, especially keep the keel straight, and having taken off the cap, the sides will need support too. a hogged ship is a pig!

keep the pictures coming.
 

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OCD Reel Service/Repair
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I have the plastic strips for using under the tanks if you want them. I have read the same tank installation article you are referring to.
 

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Tangle Master
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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I forgot to include the pic of the other fuel tank I pulled from the 18 Fisherman that was only corroded where the foam was. :rolleyes:

You see the pitting is only in the foam areal that is not dark.

Ocean Master I am trying to figure out my tank situation first. I would like to be able to hold 100 gallons of fuel. Can I have the existing tank modified? Or should I have a new tank built to the same dimensions as the current tank just longer. Or I can find another tank to add in, but then that adds another fill hose, vent, and a three way valve, not to mention headaches of having two tanks for fittings to leak etc.

I am doing some modifications to the garage to make room for the V20, I am taking a middle post out and spanning the distance with triple 2x12x20 lumber sandwiched together to make more room. But what is the ideal cradle to keep everything in alignment?
 

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