90 HP Evinrude Power Problem - Page 2 - Pensacola Fishing Forum

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Old 04-22-2018, 10:54 AM   #11
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When in the water, do you get any distance at all when you give it throttle, or does it die immediately when you throttle? If it dies immediately, I'd think it's the low-speed jets clogged. If you didn't mark the carbs (1,2,3, or Top, Middle, Bottom) when you pulled them, then they are most likely out of sync, unless you have good memory.
-If you give it throttle, and you're getting up in speed, then nail it (WOT), then power slows and then dies (it'll usually stay running if you back off the throttle fast enough), it's most likely from sucking air from the line, bulb or tank gauge gasket causing an interruption of fuel flow. Or you forgot to open the tank vent.
-If you're running the motor at WOT but not getting it, and the motor is trying to open up, rpm jumps up high then drops down continually, then it's a high-speed jet clogged.
I have a tank you can borrow to check your tank/lines if you want. I'm in Milton. Just pm me.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:23 PM   #12
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Let Floater1 take a look. He is a wiz on these motors. I had a 90 myself and its perfect. 45 mph on a 17’ Aquasport
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:48 PM   #13
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The kits I bought had jets in them. I did this last August when the problem started. I did one carb at a time. Even the jets I took out were clear but I put the new ones in anyway. Did Not solve the problem. Dies just as soon as you hit the throttle while in the water. Hit it fast or slow it dies! Thnx for the offer CurDog and I will keep that in mind the next time I can take it out. The wife not feeling good and been the hospital for 9 days now. Going to take a while to recover from this one physically and financially. Before I spend money I will ask you if your offer stills stands. One thing I can do is the spark test once she comes home. I will post those results when I know them. Now yall gone and confused this old man with all the different problems it could be. Prolly going to have to take to a mechanic in the end but I wanted to try to fix myself because that is the way I am. I believe it is called Jolly Rogers Marine at the corner of Pace and Garden/Navy Blvd which is real close to my home and I understand he is fair and good. Unless y'all tell me different I believe he is a member here too.
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:29 PM   #14
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The only other things I can think of is if your engine has the single power pack, it has the OIS (optical ignition system), which "requires" the QL77JC4 spark-plug gapped @ .030".
Problems arise because people like NKG plugs and not knowing this engine can and will shut down (power kill) in wot if using different plugs.
Or you are getting a positive charge running thru the Blk/Yel (may be Brn/Yel, it's been awhile. pretty sure it's the Blk/Yellow tho), wire at the key switch, causing it to short out and killing engine power (the higher you rev the engine, the more volts are created). If this is the case, there is another short somewhere causing the positive to merge into the neg. side.
I'm sure you could google it to find the most common source where the short would occur.
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Old 04-25-2018, 01:06 AM   #15
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I'm working on a 48spl right now, bad primer solenoid. But got me thinking, if your carb floats are too far out of adjustment, it can allow only enough fuel to idle and maybe putt-putt, but as soon as you hit WOT, the engine sucks the little bit of fuel out of the bowl, then the engine starves for fuel and will shut down.
And as you describe it runs fine with rabbit ears (under no load), but in the water (being under a load), it'll shut down. I believe what's happening is since the fuel demand will be greater under load, the carbs are not suppling enough fuel to sustain that need. No fuel = shut-down.
I've had them before where the engine would die or run really rough when the motor was trimmed up running WOT. Problem (on that particular motor), was the middle carbs' float out of adjustment. Once it was re-set, it purred. g/l
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:46 PM   #16
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Thanks CurDog. I am definitely going to change the plugs as mentioned above and if that does not solve the problem in my mind not a waste of money as new plugs never hurt. I can go back and reset all the floats. I believe I did them to the specs I found online but that was a year ago. The boat has been sitting that long now because of too much work but this is fix'n to change! As I explained before may be some time before I can check the advice given but it going to happen soon! I will update this post at that time. Again Thanks to all and happy fishing!
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Old 05-14-2018, 05:53 PM   #17
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Of subject bit I had an 88 Special Selectra Shift. It has electronic shifting by push button. It was a breeze to hold the boat still. Kinda like the old Dodge push button shift.
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:09 PM   #18
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Sorry for the long delay but had some personal problems arise. I finally took it to a mechanic in Mississippi that owed my daughter big time. He did $1600 worth of repairs for $780. It had a blown head gasket so he had both heads reworked and a lot of new gaskets. He went through the carbs but found no problem there but adjustment. He changed the plugs to specs. He check the water pump and it was good as it was almost brand new before the trouble started. Thinking back I got some seaweed wrapped around the water intake and it ran hot. I shut it down as soon as the alarm went off but that prolly started the whole mess. Any way Thnx for all the advice and now just waiting on my brand new Hummingbird 698CI HD SI dead out of the box to be returned to me from Hummingbird so I can go fishing again. Brand new to the waters around Pensacola so I will be asking for a little advice as to where to start once I get the 698 back. Again THNX everyone for your input.
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