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Old 03-15-2011, 03:21 PM   #11
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I googled that and seems to be an issue lot of people have. I would ask how to do that but I guess I better take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

thanks everyone
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:25 PM   #12
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Default Have the same issue

I bought the 3-year warranty and it's about to run out.

I'm sure the repair dude will be relieved because he is at my house more than I am. Would love a solution but those things seem to eat batteries.

I got a trickle charger and I just leave it trickling.
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:20 PM   #13
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I'll get to the bottom of it and let you know. I have a friend of a friend that is one of those guys who just has the ability to fix anything. I spoke to him a little while ago and he said chances are it's a loose ground somewhere that has not been checked. I have a list of stuff to do on it. I have a gut feeling it will all come down to a new starter. This mower is at least 6 years old and never had an issue that I didn't cause.

In researching this stuff I found a tractor forum. I love my fishing forums but a tractor forum???? there are pictures of lawn mowers all cleaned up, waxed, and tire shine. Everyone has there hobbies but I can't see this one. (No offense to our tractor forum brothers and sisters intended)
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Old 03-15-2011, 07:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jighead View Post
The wheel on top of the motor will do about a rotation or so then stop.
My riding mower is doing the exact same thing. I haven't figured it out yet. It's not the battery. It's not the starter. It's not the solenoid. I'm guessing a bad cable somewhere in the starting loop (Battery, cable, solenoid, cable, starter, block, ground cable back to battery).

If I figure it out, I'll let you know. But I'm not going to have a chance to work on it again til next week.
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Old 03-15-2011, 07:58 PM   #15
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I went the same route, bought two batteries. Then figured out it was my solenoid not letting enough juice through.

Jump it with a screw driver.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:51 PM   #16
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YES Check the solenoid that way may show it. A new one isn't real steep either.

Solenoids will get a carbon buildup on the contact plate inside if cranked on low battery too much.

Brent
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:10 PM   #17
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Check the battery with a vom with the engine both off and running. This will tell you if you have a inop charging system.

If you have ever jumped the engine from a car, chances are you have burned out the charging system.


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Old 03-21-2011, 12:14 AM   #18
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Is your Briggs and Stratton engine hard to start? Does the engine struggle to turn over. Most of the overhead valve engines have a compression release feature which allows for the starter to not have to work hard to crank the engine. It's a slight raising, or bump, on the exhaust lobe of the camshaft. What it does is open the exhaust valve a little early to allow excess compression to bleed off. At speeds over 300rpm, the tappet just sort of floats over this bump and it has no effect on engine performance. But at starting speeds, it's essential or the starter just can't turn the engine over and it seems as though the starter must be bad or the battery dead? Proper performance of the compression release requires proper valve lash adjustment. Adjusting the valves is a relatively simple project requiring only a few tools and once you learn how to do it, you should include it with your annual maintenance program.
Tools Needed

Ratchet with extension and 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2" sockets
Feeler gauge in .004" and .006"
3/8" wooden dowel or substitute
Torx or Allen driver to fit lock screw
First you need to access the valve cover, this will be the silver cover on top of the engine head. It will have OHV stamped into it and is held on with four screws/bolts. These screws are usually 3/8" or 7/16" hex head and are removed using a socket and ratchet. There is a gasket between the valve cover and head. If you are careful you can usually re-use this. Then remove the spark plug.
Now with the cover off, you can see the rockers, push rods, valve springs and valve stems. The valves are the ones with the springs on them. If you turn the flywheel by hand you will see the valves move up and down and how the assembly works. Find the intake valve, this will be the one that the carburetor feeds fuel and air into. You will need to turn the flywheel until you see this valve open and then close again. Once the intake valve closes, the piston will be near the top of its travel, or Top Dead Center, (TDC).
At this point, take the wooden dowel and insert it into the spark plug hole, you should feel the top of the piston. Slowly turn the flywheel by hand while holding the dowel against the piston and you will feel the piston move. Be careful doing this. If the dowel starts to become caught in a bind, back the piston up and remove the dowel. You only want the dowel in the cylinder when the piston is at or near the top of its travel.

With the piston at TDC, rock the flwheel back and forth to find the highest spot of the piston travel using your dowel. Then find a spot on the head that's easy to see and mark the dowel where it lines up with that spot. Now remove the dowel and make another mark 1/4" above the first mark.
The valve lash should be set with the piston at 1/4" past TDC, so what you are doing is making a gauge to line up the piston travel with a reference point. Now put the dowel back in and rotate the flywheel so that the piston is now 1/4" past TDC.
On the rockers, the stamped metal pieces that open the valves, there will be a nut and there's a lock screw inside that nut. Usually this screw will be a Torx head but whatever it is, loosen it and then loosen the retaining nut. You will notice the slack in the rockers, the amount of slack is what you are adjusting. For the intake valve, take the .004" feeler gauge and insert it between the valve stem and rocker. Then tighten the retaining nut until the feeler gauge will just barely slide in and out. It should be a snug fit, the gauge should have some resistance when trying to pull it out.
Then tighten the lock screw back down and that valve is finished. Repeat the feeler gauge process on the exhaust valve using the .006" gauge and replace the valve cover. If the gasket tore when you removed it or it isn't in the best of condition, you can either purchase a new gasket of do what we do in the shop and use PermaTex Ultra Black to re-seal the valve cover. We also use anti-seize on the valve cover screws. Both PermaTex and anti-seize are available at any auto parts store as well as the tools required.
Once you have the valve cover back on, you're ready to start the engine. Don't worry if it's still doing the same as before. It usually take a few tries to do this right if you've never adjusted valve lash. Just start over and try it a couple more times if necessary. If you can't get it right after several tries, you may have a different problem which will require further diagnosis.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:58 PM   #19
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That's good info. Once I rule out all the cables, I'll try that.
Might get to work on it a bit tonight.
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:32 AM   #20
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Hey Jighead, you ever get your mower problems sorted out? I went out last night to see if I could adjust the valves on mine... no go. My engine is the flathead variety, not the OHV. So, tonight or sometime soon, I'll be replacing cables with all new 8 guage wire. I've got the wire, just need to get some more connectors.
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