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Old 05-03-2011, 06:25 PM   #1
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Default Attic Insulation

Planning to add more insulation to our attic soon to keep the ac from running so often.

Looking at either Blown Fiberglass (Owens Corning Atticat) or Blown Cellulose (Greenfiber). Currently have about 2.5-4" of fiberglass rolls/batts and it varies amongst the attic as far as thickness.

Any pros and cons of these 2? I've heard the Cellulose settles and has a lot of dust but it is cheaper than Fiberglass. I've also heard about the mold and fire issues with Cellulose. Some say they are myths since they are chemically treated but how long does that chemical treatment actually last for something like greenfiber?

Anyone know of anywhere cheaper than home depot and lowes to get the blown insulation and blower? greenfiber is about $12 per 19lb pack at lowes and OC atticat is about $28 per 28lb pack at home depot but supposedly doesn't settle so that kinda negates some of the cost of fb vs cellulose. Have 10% off at either store and I've got a $25 off $250+ at lowes as well to burn so that drops the price of the cellulose a bit more.

have 800 square foot of attic to insulate and trying to not break the bank lol
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:55 PM   #2
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I had a base of cellulose, like R-13 or something. I did a little research and felt secure with keeping it cellulose. I can't remember how much I added but in layman's terms, I added a $hitload. I have a 2100 square foot house. I thank I took it up to R-40 something. I paid around $900 or so to some folks in GB. They did a good job. I didn't want fiberglass. Just a personal preference. Last summer, the highest my power bill got was about $190. Pre-insulation, my power bills were well over $250 so my bill went down despite fuel going up.

I had a buddy who is very handy blow it himself in a 1200 square foot house. He spent $600 and said it was one of the worst jobs he's ever done. Apparently the blower from Lowe's sucked. Like the stuff just dropped out and didn't really blow out and radiate the way he thought it would.
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw1973 View Post
I had a base of cellulose, like R-13 or something. I did a little research and felt secure with keeping it cellulose. I can't remember how much I added but in layman's terms, I added a $hitload. I have a 2100 square foot house. I thank I took it up to R-40 something. I paid around $900 or so to some folks in GB. They did a good job. I didn't want fiberglass. Just a personal preference. Last summer, the highest my power bill got was about $190. Pre-insulation, my power bills were well over $250 so my bill went down despite fuel going up.

I had a buddy who is very handy blow it himself in a 1200 square foot house. He spent $600 and said it was one of the worst jobs he's ever done. Apparently the blower from Lowe's sucked. Like the stuff just dropped out and didn't really blow out and radiate the way he thought it would.
Been there don't let lowes..depot sell you on the do it your self its almost the same price to pay someone.. go with the cellulose don't worry about it and the more you pile in the attic the more it cost I'm on the west side near al I used sunbelt insulators don't know how far they will travel
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:08 PM   #4
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One of my past lives involved working for 2 large insulation companies, then I bought out the 2nd, and sold it several years later. I wouldn't get too twisted up on which is the best material. They are both fine. Personally I like cellulose, but would have no problem with FG. I agree with the comments above.....the Lowes, HD machines are garbage, and they make you bend over and spread your cheeks for the bags. A decent sized contractor buys them by the trailer load for MUCH MUCH less. Given the economy of scale, the insurance, etc. I'd also reccommend going the contractor route. One slip off a joist or truss, putting a leg thrugh a ceiling (seen it done) will make it not worth it for sure.
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:37 PM   #5
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this product is awsome drasctic difference little more money but well worth it call foam seal insulation
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:55 PM   #6
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if you can afford it, go with foam. i have 3 inches of #2 closed cell foam on my roof deck (impermeable to water, increases sheer strength of roof deck 300%) on my personal home, when they have a slow day they are coming back to put 4-5 inches of open cell on top of that. thats the absolute best prescription for an attic you can have period. it will give me well above a R30, seal everything up, its nice and clean, no dust or insualtion laying ever where, etc. i think i have a photo album on my fb page www.facebook.com/omegapensacola that has a few shots of open & close foam. people i use are advanced insulation in gulf breeze.... hope this helps.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:46 PM   #7
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Foam Seal did my spray foam and I've heard a lot good things about Advanced too. I would at least get some prices for someone else doing it. We heat/cool 3100 living area in an all electric house. Think our bill was 163 last month.
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Old 05-04-2011, 04:11 AM   #8
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I have Icynene on one of my houses. It's an open cell foam. The active ingredient is water based and it's fire retardant. If it gets wet it drys with no damage. I unlike omega would not use the close cell foam on the entire roof even though it has a higher R value. It would keep water trapped between the shingle and the foam in the wood and cause rot. I would get the closed cell foam sprayed only on the trusses and the plywood joints as a SWR and to strengthen your decking *3 and the open cell sprayed throughout. This product is not cheap at all compared to blown in fiber but it works 1000 times better and it is a one time instal. You will never have to worry about insulation again. If you want to see the finished product the house is vacant and not set to close for 3 weeks so you will get a good feel for it. The stuff runs retail at about $2 per square foot.

Last edited by Bullshark; 05-04-2011 at 04:18 AM.
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullshark View Post
I have Icynene on one of my houses. It's an open cell foam. The active ingredient is water based and it's fire retardant. If it gets wet it drys with no damage. I unlike omega would not use the close cell foam on the entire roof even though it has a higher R value. It would keep water trapped between the shingle and the foam in the wood and cause rot. I would get the closed cell foam sprayed only on the trusses and the plywood joints as a SWR and to strengthen your decking *3 and the open cell sprayed throughout. This product is not cheap at all compared to blown in fiber but it works 1000 times better and it is a one time instal. You will never have to worry about insulation again. If you want to see the finished product the house is vacant and not set to close for 3 weeks so you will get a good feel for it. The stuff runs retail at about $2 per square foot.
some incorrect info there james.....



1) open cell should never get wet, regardless of brand (icynene is just a name brand, like get me a klennex please)

2)open cell is NOT fire retardant, matter of fact it is the opposite. thats why the IRBC (international residential building code, all southern states other than florida{which has their own building code,) just wrote an appendix to the 2009 code that now requires all open cell roof deck applications to topped off with a fire retardant coating post foam installation. (such as apply dupont chemical through an airless rig).. most people do not use closed in the roof simply because of costs.

3) closed cell does not cause wood rot, improper/failed shingle and underlayment do. if you have a properly installed roof, there should never be any reason for water to be past both the shingle and underlayment for any repeated amount of time that would be suggnifiicant enough to cause wood rot. and if there is, you would have the rot or de-lamination--foam or no foam, open or closed. doubtful anyone would even be entertaining foaming a roof deck that didnt have a professionally installed roof that was in good shape.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:30 AM   #10
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Drew the state of florida tought a class on the rot issue in closed cell foam which I attended. I'm right. The active ingredient in Icynene is h2o unlike other foams which makes it amlot more fire resistant. For side work down here I am working with a foam seal company and im living these products. I will pass you some pamphlets when I get back so you can bone up.

Last edited by Bullshark; 05-04-2011 at 12:06 PM.
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