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#41 |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 652
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Awesome video, thanks. I'll be referring back to it during my build.
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#42 |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 652
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Never built a rod. I've replaced one rod guide and decided that I wanted to build a rod lathe. I've got a few rods with broken guides and a few other old rods laying around that I can fix up for a little practice before jumping into a full build with quality parts.
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#43 |
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Jiggin Finatic
Blue Marlin
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Okaloosa
Posts: 5,877
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Here is what I would recommend. Make a starter rod first, you will learn something with every rod you make. Plus your wrapping skills will improve too. Find a decent cheap blank that will suffice for your fishing and build it first. You don't want to start with a real expensive setup from the get go.
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AKA Jiggin Junkie II Chronicles 7:14 Randy's Canvas & Marine Vinyls 850-279-4140 850-855-5314 cell Custom Awnings - Repairs Boat Cushions - Curtains and more |
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#44 | |
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Senior Member
Mingo
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 137
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Quote:
Glad to have some new blood around though.![]() You should start making wood handles since you seem to be a good wood worker. I would buy some nice burl wood ones from you. Joe Last edited by SmokenJoe; 02-08-2012 at 01:35 PM. |
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#45 | |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 652
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Quote:
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#46 |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Crestview
Posts: 650
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Well, here's my wrapper motor/chuck made out of a ooooooold Singer. The pulley is mounted with a 1/2 allen head bolt I had "laying" around. Goes thru a brass bushing epoxied into the wood. The bolt threaded into the knob that was on the end of the pulley.
The "chuck" is a PVC slip joint cut in half. It was the right size to fit over the knob. The PVC you see sticking out can be reversed to use the larger size. Masking tape was used to build up the butt of the rod to get a snug fit into the pipe. Worked for at least 40 rods till the foot control started burning up. ![]() And find a old rod, strip the guides off (good practice for mistakes) and wrap that, less nerve wracking than a new blank. ![]()
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Last edited by kanaka; 02-09-2012 at 09:27 PM. |
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#47 | |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 652
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Quote:
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#48 | |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 652
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Quote:
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#49 | |
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Jiggin Finatic
Blue Marlin
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Okaloosa
Posts: 5,877
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Quote:
__________________
AKA Jiggin Junkie II Chronicles 7:14 Randy's Canvas & Marine Vinyls 850-279-4140 850-855-5314 cell Custom Awnings - Repairs Boat Cushions - Curtains and more |
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#50 |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 652
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I'm getting really close to a final product here. I decided to get rid of the shock cord to provide downward tension on the top wheel and instead tighten the knob for the top wheel arm to lock it in place. Simpler might not always be cooler, but it is often better. I still have a few tweeks to make, but I think I can build the rest of the stanchions. I think the arm for the top wheel needs to be just a little shorter. I may want the wheels to be a little thinner too. I'm having a problem with my drill press though. It's a little sloppy and I can't get the table perfectly plumb with the drill bits. This causes the holes in the stanchion and the holes in the wheels to be off just enough for the wheels to wobble just a bit. I'm going to take apart my drill press and see if I can get rid of the slop and get the table plumb, but it's old so I'm not holding my breath. Once I can make the wheels spin true, I'll remove a little wood from where the top wheel arm and the stanchion come together to bring the top wheel as close as possible to the bottom wheels.
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