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Big baits for King

4K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Salt Lines 
#1 ·
I was reading this article about guys who troll some big baits to target big Kings. Was wondering if anyone around here has tried this in the yak? I've always heard the standard is cigars and hardtails.

See attached picture for a list of the baits these guys use for reference.
 

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#2 ·
My $0.02:

Been a few yrs. since I've fished for kings specifically, but I always preferred a big old hard tail, swimming free lined headed for Cuba off the piers...

I recommend using the biggest bait you can get, troll deeper than usual and be patient. The larger bait helps discourage the lil snakes that plague you, 10-20# kings. but plan on getting cut-offs till that big boy swallows it.

The smaller kings will cut in your larger bait in half, sometimes returning for the remainder often not, cause they spotted your terminal tackle.

...and usually the biggest kings come in the worst weather possible, which makes yakking a health risk.
 
#4 ·
I've heard that tournament anglers use very large baits b/c they only want large fish and believe it excludes smaller ones. I've tried various bait sizes and had luck with all of them, big kings will hit smaller baits, but its usually availability of bait that dictates what I fish with. Cigar minnows (including frozen) are the local standard, and hard tails can usually be caught on a sabiki, to catch large hard tails I use a small curly tail grub. My concern with a large hard tail was I may not pick up spanish mackerel with it, and I like to put some spanish in the bag for eating. Big kings are fun, but I dont fish tourneys and I only keep smaller kings (but legal) for eating b/c of mercury accumulation. I had a very large hard tail last summer that I used and got a good king with, was really the only time I used an oversize bait to see if it would actually produce.
 
#6 ·
the dip is great, I can get most people to enjoy the dip and many people like the smoked fish. Its not a saute in butter and wine kind of fish for sure though. I like them mostly for sport as well, everything that goes into targeting them (catching bait, going out a little far, the anticipation of maybe a huge king, or cobia, and the crazy big runs that make a reel scream) makes for fun. And since they aren't prized for food, they haven't been decimated by overfishing and can usually be caught. I've moved away from treble hooks b/c I want to release most them and now use J hooks. I suspect that circle hooks dont get a chance to set properly with wire and the super high speed of a king strike.
 
#8 ·
No pic handy, but I've been meaning to post some photos so will do that soon. I found that treble hooks, especially for stingers, cause lots of damage to the fish (the stingers can really get their gills, which is very harmful if not fatal I suspect). Trebels also catch on my hands and gear too easily and I decided they just weren't worth that risk on a yak. I'll describe my rig here, its pretty standard I think, top to bottom: I use a very small swivel, tied to 7 strand 40 lb wire with a figure 8 knot, then a duster, then a smallish J hook that goes in bottom lip of a cigar and a few inches below that a slightly larger J hook as a stinger. Now, the hooks are all snelled to the wire, so no knots needed. I let the stinger just trail and dont embed it in the fish (the way you snell it affects how the hook sits though so play with till you get the results you want). The J hook goes in the bottom lip and out the top, must be dead on the center line to avoid spin. I also cut the tails off frozen cigars, helps avoid spin. I usually add a duster, not always, i like to drift life baits (cause I'm lazy and enjoy relaxing and bobbing on the seas) and try not to use a duster for that, most frozen cigs get a duster. I've wondered if for live bait I need to go in the mouth and up and out the top so the fish can open its mouth and get water flowing over its gills.
One alternative I really like a whole lot is sold at Half Hitch and probably elsewhere. Its three large J hooks in a row, with the eye of one hook around the shank of the preceding hook. THey are simple and great, but I dont know what they are called and cant find a photo online.
 
#12 ·
The other active thread today in this part of the forum is about rod holder placement. I want to install a rod holder in front of me, but haven't figured out where/how to yet. mostly so I can see the rod tip and not miss small strikes and notice if my bait gets taken or fouled. Also b/c its kinda hard and risks losing fish pulling a rod out of a holder behind me. You've got to get the rod out of the way of the paddle stroke, plus I haul my yak upside down so I need the top deck flush, leaving few location options for installing a rod holder.
 
#13 ·
I thought about that as well. I'm actually really tall (6'6") so I have quite a reach. My thought was to get the rocket holder rod mounts with the flush mounts and install them very far forward facing away from the kayak. You can remove the actual rod holder for storing on top of your vehicle.

Might still be a bad idea but it's tough knowing if your spinning gear is going off if mounted behind you. Maybe just my inexperience?
 
#16 ·
I thought about that as well. I'm actually really tall (6'6") so I have quite a reach. My thought was to get the rocket holder rod mounts with the flush mounts and install them very far forward facing away from the kayak. You can remove the actual rod holder for storing on top of your vehicle.

Might still be a bad idea but it's tough knowing if your spinning gear is going off if mounted behind you. Maybe just my inexperience?

I troll w/ the yak in our rivers bays.
I would have no problem using this technique for kings, etc...
I place my rod butt under my right foot between foot and foot pad, lean the rod out to my left under my left foot holding the rod in place. The rod tip extends out beyond my paddle stroke (6ft. also). I loosen the drag to allow a fish to hit w/o ripping it from the mouth.

Rod n reel are held under my foot, I see the rod tip and feel the vibrations of the lure as I move through the water.
 
#14 ·
I've had more than one fish on and not realized it b/c the rod holder was behind me. I've also reeled in many baits that were half or completely missing. I think if I could see the rod tip I would be able to tell if something sliced my bait in half, even if it didn't pull drag. That would cue me to stop and wait for a follow up, then to replace my bait. With the rod behind me the only way I know something touched my bait is if it pulls drag and sets off the clicker, which just doesn't always happen
 
#19 ·
This forum can be a great source of advice and info, ask questions and learn to use the search feature. It will get you up the learning curve quickly. Kings tend to show up reliably in April, so you have a few months to prepare. Get accustomed to your yak on the bay before trying the gulf, but if the wind is from the south and the waves are smallish the gulf is very approachable even if you dont have tons of experience.
Other tips: less gear is better, I bring only one box of lures/tackle. Two rods is usually plenty, I wind a sabiki around a wood dowell with a pool noodle so it doesn't require an additional rod. Always bring your life vest, get a whistle and attach it to the life vest. I always wear the vest coming in/out of the surf, if I go out very far, and always in low light. I keep a bright colored cloth in my vest and in my yak to wave at boats that may not see me. I've had to do this during cobia season, those boaters are just looking for fish shaped shadows, not yak, and they get close to shore. I like using a bait tube to keep my live baits, they are easy to make, the black PVC floats. Make a bunch of leashes for your rods and all gear, you will tip at some point. A milk crate is a fairly standard way to hold all your gear, zip tie pvc to it for rod holders (and attach those leashes). Now is a good time to get all your gear prepped and become comfortable on the yak so you can make the most of the warm season fishing.
 
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