Somebody decode the arrow mystery please. - Pensacola Fishing Forum

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Old 08-11-2012, 09:58 PM   #1
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Default Somebody decode the arrow mystery please.

I have always taken my bow in, and asked what arrows do I need? I figured I would try to find a good deal online and order some, but dang! What is all this spine, grain, +/- .000? stuff out there? Somebody boil it down to understanding arrows for dummies please! Surely I do not have to spend $100 for a doz arrows just because the guy behind the counter says it is what I need right?
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:28 PM   #2
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You don't have to spend a hundred bucks on arrows but you get what you pay for.

Honestly, a hundred bucks for a dozen arrows ins't all that much, especially when you consider hoe many times you will shoot those arrows through out the course of a season.

Consider how much a box of good 30-06 ammo costs. $30 - $60 for a box of 20. So you go to the range a couple times in a year and burn up a couple boxes of ammo and end up spending 60 - $120$ or more. Each one of those bullets cost what they cost and don't get cheaper with each shot like an arrow will.

Now consider a $120 for 12 arrows. The first shot they cost $10 each. If you shoot them again they now cost $5 each. Shoot them a third time and they now cost $3.33 each. Shoot them a fourth time and they now cost $2.50 each....... so on and so on and so on. I'll probably shoot a single arrow hundreds of times or more through the course of practicing. Divide out the cost and those arrows are pretty darn inexpensive..... They end up costing pennies per shot.

The arrow is probably the most important piece of the entire set up and the only place where you should make sure you don't skimp because of cost. Any bow, from cheap beginner bows to bows that cost $1000, can be tuned to shoot great but if you shoot junk arrows don't expect much.

Another thing to consider with cheap arrows is that when you actually start weighing them and checking their straightness you will find that only a few of them will be consistent from one to the next. If you want arrows where the entire dozen are worth screwing a brodhead on the cheap arrows really aren't that much of a bargain.

Come by the store some time and I will show you the difference in a good arrow and a cheap arrow. Cheap arrows look like a wet noodle on an arrow spinner and they spine and weights tolerances between a dozen arrows are less than consistent.



Spine refers to how much an arrow bends and also refers to the stiff and weak side of the arrow, just like a fishing rod.

Grain refers to how much a bare shaft weighs per inch. You can calculate how much a finished arrow will weigh with this number and it will help you pick an arrow if you have a particular game animal in mind or want to achieve a certain speed.

The .001, .003, .006 number refers to how straight the shaft is measured in thousandths of an inch. This measurement is + or - so a .006" arrow can be crooked .012" or more.

Any time you have questions feel free to PM me.
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:15 AM   #3
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Bulls - that was awesome.... But i wonder how many guys really put that much thought into their arrow selection. My quiver is usually a mismatched eclectic mix of whatever I didn't lose or break from the last few years. They're usually different lengths, weights, sizes and even have different fletchings ...I'm actually proud that they're all carbon and there aren't any old aluminums left in there. I usually practice for a couple of months before the season opens and honestly - At 35 Yds and under they all shoot about the same. Now before somebody schools me up about why I should spend a bunch of money on arrows let me say that I'm not proud of my quiver but it usually gets the job done so to the OP I speak only for myself when I say shoot what ya got and buy some more if you have to.... What matters is can you put it thru the lungs on Oct 20

Last edited by Try'n Hard; 08-12-2012 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:55 AM   #4
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Bulls, Right on! Your never disappointed if you buy the best!
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Old 08-12-2012, 04:25 AM   #5
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bigbull sum it up lol now im lost
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:12 AM   #6
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Default this tells all you need to know

http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_..._chapter_1.htm
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:18 AM   #7
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I agree. You get what you pay for. Before I hunt, I weigh my arrows and broadheads separate, and then weigh them assembled. I expect them to be within two grains+-.
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Old 08-12-2012, 11:59 AM   #8
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I never thought of the cost breakdown that way. Really good point there.

I guess what I am wondering is, everytime I take my bow in to get arrows, it seems that there is only one choice. It is always "you are gonna use this arrow here." I know arrow fitting and bow tuning can get to be an exacting science, but certainly there are options on what I can shoot as long as they are same spine, weight, etc right?

And can we explain spine for me? if an arrow is ".350" spine" what the heck does that mean? would a 450 bend more or less? would that make a 450 thicker walled/shafted or just stronger?

I think I understand straightness tolerances tells us that no two are the same and this is how much they may vary etc. right?

weight: How heavy should I go? Is there a sweet spot with the bow as far as weight goes?
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:12 PM   #9
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Probably should have read the link first. Thanks to earnhardt fan, that was a helpful read. A lot of good stuff there.
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
And can we explain spine for me? if an arrow is ".350" spine" what the heck does that mean? would a 450 bend more or less? would that make a 450 thicker walled/shafted or just stronger?
There are two spine definitions when referring to arrows. Static apine and dynamic spine.

Static spine refers to the amount of flex an arrow will exhibit when a specific amount of pressure is applied to the center of the shaft. IT is measured by taking a raw shaft and sitting it on two points. A specific amount of pressure is applied to the shaft at the center of those two points. How much that shaft bends is the spine rating. A 340 spine arrow will bend .340 inches. A 500 spine arrow will bend .5 inches. So the 500 spine arrow is weaker than the .340 arrow.

Now, the confusing part comes when you start looking at different manufacturers.

Easton and Beman use the actual spine rating number on their arrows.

Carbon Expresss use a system that don't really mean crap. In carbon express arrows a 450 arrow actually has a .298 spine. A 350 arrow is a .350 spine. A 250 arrow is a .400 spine.




You also have what's called dynamic spine. This describes how an arrow will act when actually shot out of a bow. Weight placed any where on the arrow will effect the dynamic spine of the arrow. The more weight you have at the tip of the arrow the more that arrow will bend and weaker the arrow will act. The more weight you add to the rear of the arrow the less it will bend and the stiffer the arrow will act.

Dynamic spine is also effected by the length of the arrow. The longer the arrow the weaker it will act. The shorter the arrow the stiffer it will act.





Quote:
I think I understand straightness tolerances tells us that no two are the same and this is how much they may vary etc. right?
Yeah. Straightness tolerance simply refers to how straight a certain model of arrow is suppose to be. An arrow with a rating of .001" should exhibit more more than 1 thousandth of an in in any one direction when rotated and measured.

An arrow with .006 tolerance should exhibit no more than 6 thousandths of an inch in any one direction and no more than 1.2 hundredths of an inch from one side to the other side.



Quote:
weight: How heavy should I go? Is there a sweet spot with the bow as far as weight goes?
The over all weight of an arrow is really just a personal choice. However, if all other things are equal, a heavier arrow will start out with more energy and momentum and maintain that energy and momentum over distance better than a light weight arrow. In other words, it hits a lot harder than a light weight arrow.

A heavy arrow will penetrate better through an animal.

A heavier, slower arrow is much much easier to tune, especially with broadheads, than an ultra light arrow.

A heavy arrow will make your bow quieter than a light weight arrow because the bow is transferring more of its stored energy to the arrow instead of dissipating that stored energy in the form of vibration and heat through the riser and limbs.

A heavier arrow will cause your bow less stress on your bow and less wear and tear on your bow because it absorbs more of the bows energy and the bow doesn't have to dissipate that energy else where in the bow.



Quote:
I guess what I am wondering is, everytime I take my bow in to get arrows, it seems that there is only one choice. It is always "you are gonna use this arrow here." I know arrow fitting and bow tuning can get to be an exacting science, but certainly there are options on what I can shoot as long as they are same spine, weight, etc right?
I don't know where you have been buying your arrows or who you have talked to but there are numerous choices for every one. There is never just a single choice in a hunting arrow. The arrow you choose will be based on the bow they are going to be shot out of. By this I mean a bow with an IBO rating of 340 fps will need a stiffer arrow than a bow with an IBO speed rating of 315 fps. This is because the faster bow is applying more energy to that arrow than the slower bow is.

The length the arrow will be cut. The longer the arrow the weaker that arrow will act.

The weight of the tip/broadhead you're going to use, the draw length your bow is set at. The heavier the tip the weaker the arrow will act.
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