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crappie my way

3K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  Van Schwank 
#1 ·
I think posting this will help a few, give others something to try and help me remember how I did it, if I ever start losing my mind. I don't enjoy visable tree tops, spider rigging, or minnows. I hate staying hung in treetops the most. Spider rigging is probably the best way to catch a lot of fish but i'm about enjoying myself and not getting stressed with a bunch of rods and tackle plus I have gotten over big numbers of fish. I LOVE to feel the "thump" from a crappie bite - Its different from any other fish I know.
My preferred crappie fishing method is to cast a 1/32 or 1/16 oz jig to underwater structure or drop offs - anywhere I can find fish on the FF.
I use a fenwick 7' light action rod and the smallest Penn spinning reel they make - I think its a Penn 1000. I went thru about 3 combos to get it the way it felt right. I use 8#braid in high vis yellow. I like to use a 6# fluorocarbon leader but usually I'm just too lazy to rig it....but its better - I think.
Finding fish on the FF is sometimes difficult. I've learned that a 13" - 16" crappie looks like its about 8" - 11" on my FF scale, I think the tail just doesn't show up, Ive also learned that just because you don't see them on structure doesn't mean there aren't some there. sometimes they are so close to the limbs they just blend in. If it looks good - I usually give it a couple casts at least and don't like to leave until I feel the structure with the jig. More on that in a minute. If I don't have a FF, I like to watch the bank for tree trunks laying in the water or even better a broke trunk with no tree on the bank (meaning its probably underwater) I look at similar trees around it and judge the height and where the end of it may have settled, figuring for current and trees that only have limbs on one side, meaning most trees on a bank have there limbs on only the water side of the tree... so fish the entire area where you think a tree may be.
Now heres the tricky part - I like to cast around the structure to start - no use in hanging up if the fish are aggressive, hungry and willing to leave the structure to bite - But - Usually, this is not the case and I end up casting past the structure or right on top of it. Its nice if my jig just touches it and comes of but usually - it hangs. Ive learned that a couple of hard snaps with the rod tip will cause it to break loose and this is where I get 75% of my bites. As soon as you feel it come loose raise the tip and watch the line - the "thump" will follow!
Ive got some plastic bodies that I like including the Bobby Garland "Baby Shad" in Monkey Milk color but my new favorite are the "Charlie Brewer" sliders in the same color. The Sliders are a tougher plastic and the jig holds longer. My jig heads are made by "litewire hooks" and I only have white and chartruse. I have ordered some Charlie Brewer weedless jigs that rig like a bass worm hook with the point of the hook in the jig body - looking forward to trying that.
Anyway that's it for now - If yall got any questions I will answer best I know. Thanks for looking
 
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#6 ·
First class tip(s). Thanks a million. Next time I'm in the mood to chase crappie this will get a good trial. I'm at Lake Seminole. If I had crappie gear I would put your tips to use on Spring Creek
 
#13 ·
My Pop used those weedless Slider heads for crappie years ago. I was reluctant to use them because I figured they required a harder hook-set to push through the plastic, and hard hook-sets on a papermouth didn't seem right to me. Pop agreed, but he said sometimes the crappie are IN the brush, and you just gotta go in after them. His catch ratio to mine was like 10-1, so I guess he knew more about crappie than me.

He also preferred 4# line most of the time, but said 6# would allow him to straighten the hook occasionally. If he ever got one to straighten, he was happy and called it a "soft hook", which made it easier to straighten after hang-ups. Said he could get more mileage from a jig after that.
 
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