Swordfishing 101 - Page 3

Chris V · 07-22-2008, 12:04 PM

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bottomfisher01 (7/22/2008)I also read in another post using circle hooks you wont get as many gut-hooked fish. Is that true?

That is the point of a circle hook; to provide a solid hook set in the corner of the mouth, which on most fish is the best spot, and to decrease the mortality rate on released fish.

PELAGIC PIRATE · 07-22-2008, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Ron Mexico (5/4/2008)When we started fishing swords I used Blue's rig because of how well the squid was presented and it was readily available on-line. The first year we used that rig we caught our fare share of fish, hell we even tried it with a 20/0 circle hook which worked ok. The problem with that rig other that it takes a while to rig each bait is that when the fish hits and starts to swim off and you start to move the drag into the strike position to set the hook (same way blue describes) is that the floss that is holding the mantle to the crimp on the leader does one of two thing pulls out of the squid or parts from the crimp. Either way the squid slides down the leaderand bunches up in the gap of the hook preventing the hook from getting a solid bite and setting in the fish. So where does this leave us? Well like Blue said there is more than one way to skin a cat and everybody has a rig they feel confident about and that is the 50 percent of the battle.After tryingabout a dozen different rigging techniques. I have settled on what is call the tag in method for my night time drops. I tie a bimini in my main line and to thatI gowith 15' to20' of 200-300lb mono wind-on-leader with a snap swivel crimped to the end this allows me to quickly switch from trolling baits in the day to swording at night and visa-versa. Now for the actual rig. I use 3 to 10 feet of 200-400 lb fluorocarbon, not because it is harder for the fish to see but whatI like is abrasion resistance and the stiffness of the leader (which makes it easier to rap up the next daysince it has no memory). But for the purpose of this rig the stiffness is what I like. After I make a loop w/ chaff guard crimp one end to attach to the snapswival on the wind-on. I then slide two more sleeves on to the leader one I leave free to float up and down the leader the other I use to crimp my hook on. Once you crimp on the hook (I use 8 to 10/0 jobo, but hooks are a matter of preference)you should leave a two to four inch tag end above the hook. I then cut the tag end at an angle so that it forms apoint (you can even sharpen it with sand paper if you like). Now to rig the squid first I stitch the head to the mantel, this is easy just stuff the head into the mantel and with a rigging needle go through the mantel and head and then back through the side with your standing line. Then cinch down and secure it with a pyramid knot. Next you lay the squid down flat and with the soft side facingup. And place your hook on top of the squid so that you can see were you should enter and exit the body cavity (I like the hook toexit about an inch to a 1/4 above the head. Once you have hooked the squid the onlypart of the hook that you should see is eye and the bend were the hook has exited the bait.Nowpush the sharpened tagend all the way through the squid from front to back just above the eye of the hook and repeat again at the top of the mantle.The squid should now be sitting pretty straight on you leader,you may need to twist your hook and do a little fine toning but the squid should besecured to your hook and leader. Now with the extra sleeve from earlier, slide it over both your standing line and the tag end down to the squid. Ifyou have left enough of a tag end there should be no reason to crimp down on the sleeve it should just hold the bait secure to the two lines.But if you like crimp down and clip the remainder of the tag end.But by leaving the tag in place you can change out old bait for a fresh one quickly and easily which quite often makes all the difference in the world. I am also a big fan of dying the squid red. If you have ever caught one or had one jump in the boat you will notice that they are blood red. On a long soak a rigged squid will turn white and not look very tasty. With that saidchangingout baits often is the way to go. Other great baits large silver eel, rigged Spanish and <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

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lace></st1:City> mackerel, live hard tail small black fin, yellow fin tuna and Speedo tuna. I then deploy thembehind the boat fishing them from floats with chem. sticks attached so thatI can see each bait if the float goes under or lays over on its side you have a bite. Ifish four floats and two baits straight from the tip, six in total and one pitch bait incase one swims up to the boat.I fish from 500 to 50 feet down. If you have any questions send mePM. I do a seminar for west marine once a quarter. I know my spelling sucks, but no need to rub it in. Good luck and I hope to see you on the water.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com

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I use the tag end method as well after flossing up squid in the dark for 3 seasons. With this method you can rig and re-rig squid in seconds. One this to add , is I leave the a much larger tag-end than 2 to 4 inches , which can be cut back when you see how big the squid you are rigging. I also use nothing but the tag end, main leaderand hook to hold the squid in placewithout using floss at all which is what makes the rig so easy and effective.dying squid: i think there is some merit to this . When you catch live squid they change in color from dark redish coloration to clear with spots. So by dying a frozen squid different colors you are putting back the natural color they normally have when not frozen.Also i can after having tested coloring the baits ,that once you get a bite doing this you tend to repeat what made you sucessfull in the past. Plus it takes a few seconds to dye them and for sure doesnt cause you to not get bites.Chumming : is something i started but cant say it helps and or hurts. One thing about chumming is , i use only frozen squid chum blocks i bought from bionic baits. I think using anything but squid may bring in sharks. Now when at the Rigs and Floaters , use of meat type chums bring more tuna than shark which is fine but for swords ??? I know of atleast one fish we caught chumming pogies, caught on a pogie so they do eat fish ! I have yet to rig anything other than squid, but i know boston mackrels , mullet and hardtails all catch there fair share of fish.Leader Lights: I use both the battery type, and the stick lights in conjunction. I put the battery operated one at the swivel 15 ft from the bait and use a glow stick on the leader 5ft from the squid. I also started using the disco type lights that turn different colors, but one color lights worked fine.Weights:I use 16 oz to 48 oz depending on current. I attach the weights to the battery operated light which has a loop on its bottom. I then push a rubber bank for the aaproriate weight size and push it throgh the loop . I then use the rubber band to loop through weight , and loop the weight through the loop. The weight will break off if you get a big enough fish on the line.Boat lights: I run a rumblefish sword light , which are the best submersable light i have yet to use . The light has internal weight so it sinks on its own and has a very long heavy-dutycord. My light is a shade of purple/white , and then run a hydroglow on the other side in green. I think the lights attract bait , which inturn make you boat a floating bait ball. We all know that bait brings fish , and i have caught just about everything in the lights over the years. Swords will swim up to the lights at times which is pretty cool to see them swimming below.I have had anything from huge schools of squid to flyers and tinker mackrel. When the bait is in the lights , its a sure sign swords are not far.For those who may want to know where i bought my gear from , for the most part Tek at reelproshop has been super helpfull with lots of S Florida Sword knowledge.

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