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#1 |
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Senior Member
White Marlin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 2,870
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I learned a lot tonight reading the forum here:
http://bow.fishingcountry.com/bfcfor...splay.php?f=21 Joel aka Murpheryslaw and I talk all the time and I helped him do some rigging on his boat. We both have the same Honda 2000 knockoff generator. It's a Kipor brand in a Red case. We have 4- halogen lights with 300watt bulbs in them. They do pretty good. But now on to what I learned tonight. The lights we have put out 20,000 lumens. @ 10amps This is all 4 - 300 watt lights added together. That means it's running @ 3/4 load ALL the time. If you mounted 4- 150watt of the small HPS [High Pressure Sodium ] lights. you would get 64,000 lumens @ 9.6amps @ startup and then they drop back to using 5.6amps. Our generators can put out 13.3 amps, so 12amps would be safe to operate all the time. As you can see the gen would be running at 1/2 load. But you get 3 times the light. of the halogens. ![]() 1 Lumen is the light you would get from 100 birthday candles lighting up 1sqft of space from 1 foot distance away . The light's are $58.00ea.[bulb inc.] Replacement bulbs are aprox $12ea. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Sailfish
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pace, FL.
Posts: 1,989
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Damn !!! I'm going to have to spend more money :reallycrying Good info Bobby, Do they mount up the same way as the ones I have now? Will my bracket still work with out moding it.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
White Marlin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 2,870
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Brackets will need to be made for the new lights to mount to your light rails, but that's not a big deal.
You will want to do this for 2 reasons. 1] It will fit easier 2] It will be stronger The brackets will be made of some 1 1/2in or 2in strap alum creating a bail style mount. It's easy to cut and bend in a vise. I'm thinking if we used the 1 1/2in wide material then have it of 3/16in material and the 2in wide could be 1/8in material. Need to look at your light rails again to see what would work out best. The light housings would be drilled and bolts installed to create a mounting stud on each side. Also need to see the light itself to see if a weather tite fitting will screw on where the wiring exits the housing. This would create a weather tite seal and strain relief for the wiring. None of the materials above would be expensive at all. Let's do it. ![]() |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Sailfish
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http://www.e-conolight.com/Product/E...ber=E-HC1H151Z
You would have to modify the mount to suit the way you are talking about mounting them but they are a bit cheeper at $42.90 |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
White Marlin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 2,870
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Dang! I've got CRS. I thought I was looking at that site?
But it turned out I was looking at this one. http://www.affordablelighting.com/ou...t_fixture.html Thanks. |
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Sailfish
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pace, FL.
Posts: 1,989
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Quote:
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#7 |
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Senior Member
White Marlin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 2,870
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The bail mounts I'm talking about would look like what is on the lights now, as far as shape.
But they would be wider and stronger. |
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
White Marlin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 2,870
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http://www.hidquickfix.com/cafor250wame.html
Quote:
Those 150 HPS lights have the magnetic ballast's. This makes them less efficient. You get what you pay for. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Mingo
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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I guess by the time you buy the $42 e-conolights and then the $13 capacitor to make them run more efficient, I should have just bought the $58 lights with capacitors already in them. :reallycrying
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Trigger
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Milton
Posts: 224
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Quote:
Just curious why the 4 150 watt bulbs would pull that much? Do the ballasts require a little extra to make the bulb function properly? I ask based on the equation of: Power (watts) = Voltage (Volts) X Current (Amps). Do the ballast actually pull almost as much as the bulbs themselves? The whole lumens thing is cool. |
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