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#1 |
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Senior Member
Mingo
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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and those suckersput out some light.
Imade a couple U brackets for them and mounted 2 on the bow and pointed them down towards the ground. Had to turn them off because alot of indirect light was hitting my neighbors house 50 yards away. I still have 4 more lights to mount but really don't think I'll need but 2 more. I got the capacitors coming so I'll probably just mount a total of 4 lights and wait to mount the last 2 after I try them out. With the honda on eco-throttle, when I plugged in 2 halogens it would cycle the rpms up. With the 2 hps lights, I did not hear the Honda cycle up at all. One thing for sure, they should throw alot of extra light on the shoreline to help with navigation.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
White Marlin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 2,870
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Pix's BBB Pix's.
![]() Where did you get these? |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Mingo
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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They are the E-conolights 150w.I'llsee if I can take a pictureto show the light outputof the hps vs thehalogens.
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#4 |
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Member
Ruby Red Lip
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 99
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Are you going to install the capacitor in the fixture or build a remote ballast box? I have 6 of these lights ordered with capacitors and a enclosure to build a remote box to mount under my deck. I want to get all the weight out of the fixture so it's not so rough on them running across the bay. After doing A LOT of research, I can't wait to get mine installed and see just how much better they are than the metal halides that I have now!!!!
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#5 |
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Senior Member
White Marlin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 2,870
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I ordered 4- E-conolights 150w today. Then I ordered 4- 55uf Caps to install in them.
For those that don't know, this will make them start quicker and be more efficient. http://yhst-17357477413172.stores.ya...afor250wa.html Yes I know it says it's for a 250W HPS. Extensive testing has been done and the 14uf Caps for the 150w units are not as efficient. That was a extra $54 The original lights that I picked are back ordered for 2 months. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Mingo
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 107
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I'm gonna leave the guts inside the lights for right now andziptie the capacitors to the light frame. Running just 4 of these lights and nothing else, I don't see a need for the capacitors. btw I boughtsix of the 55 capacitors.
I'll take my extra 2 lights, take the guts out and start working on the box with them. I understand almost everything about the box, except the grounding wire coming out of the light fixtures. Where does this go?
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#7 |
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Senior Member
White Marlin
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 2,870
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Well using a 3 conductor wire cord it goes to the GND wire. Or your hook it to the case of the light and also hook the GND from the 3 wire cord to that point.
Still waiting on pixs.
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#8 |
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Member
Ruby Red Lip
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 99
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As X-Shark said, the 3rd wire is to ground the light. You NEED to hook this up to the ground from the generator. My lights just came in and I tested one of them without the capacitor and it pulled 3.4 amps. If the cap will drop the amperage back to about 1.7, that will about 50% load on your generator (EU2000??). I am building my remote box as we speak, just waiting on caps now......
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Trigger
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dauphin Island
Posts: 248
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Once you find out about the difference between the HPS and the metal halide light will you let me know. I have the metal halides and I was wodering if the HPS are better. The metal halide I have is super brite. I have a 400 watt metal halide and it is almost to bright. Just let me know which ones you like better
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#10 |
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Member
Ruby Red Lip
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 80
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Is the reason for the capacitors to lower amp draw on initial start up so the EU2000 will not trip its own circuit breaker or is the capacitor to lower overall amp draw while running and therefore reducing fuel consumption with less demand from the generator?
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