SHEEPSHEAD 101

vietvet · 12-01-2009, 12:10 PM

Thought I would post this info on my 30+ years experience with fishing year 'round for sheepshead since it came up on one of the recent inshore reports:

I wrote a long detailed "how to" on the sheepshead fishin on the old forum...I can't find it so I'll do it again. Here's the basics: Although this technique will work on any area bridges/structures, I mainly fish I-10 and R/R trestle over Escambia bay because it is somewhat sheltered and shallow (6-8 feet..it's harder to catch them when it's real deep (too much slack and give in the line))...you want to go when it's relatively smooth which most of the time is early in the day before the wind gets up. If it's too choppy, you might as well stay home cause you can't feel them bite and you'll be moving your bait too much. Fiddler crabs are best although live shrimp work but you'll pick up more trash fish (most all local bait shops carry Fiddlers). Need a moving tide, either in or out...dead low or high is no good. Use #1 J hook (or a little smaller they've got a small mouth) and 15-20# mono (or higher strength floro-carbon)with 1 or 2 split shot (about 4 inches from the hook) and 6-8 foot light action rod (back in the day, we used FW bream cane poles and fly rods), remember, just enough weight to keep the crab on the bottom....when it's calm, use 1 lead unless the tide is ripping or it gets choppy. If you need more than 2 split shot you're probably at the margin of this technique. The point is you want your crab to sink to the bottom and stay in one position and very light on the bottom...too much weight is no good and don't move your bait around....stay in one place on the bottom. Fish close to the pilings, closer is better. If the sheephead are there, they see your crab sinking and will "bite" within 30 seconds or so. If you don't feel anything after about 2 minutes, reposition your bait around the pilings. OK, here's the deal: sheepshead are known as bait stealers because they don't bite like a normal fish with a strike, they gently suck and crush that crab and you won't even know it until it's too late. Juveniles will "bite" more aggressive cause I think they're in a hurry to get it before the big ones so you'll probably feel them easier than a larger, wiser adult. Looks like I'm back into a pretty detailed description but this is specialized fishing so I have to get pretty indepth to give you at least a fightin chance to catch some. You want to gauge the wind/tide drift and anchor so that your boat is about 6-8 feet from the pilings (depends on rod length) you basically want to fish almost straight down with your rod tip about 2-3 inches from the water. Once you're anchored, get a fiddler a hook him through the bottom flap but not enough to come through the carapace (top shell)...kinda hide the hook. He should be active and extending his legs (they won't touch a dead crab so change as soon as your crab dies, slows down or is listless....that's why you need at least 4 dozen to start with). OK, now free line your crab all the way to the bottom as fast as it will sink (close to the pilings) and once it touches, immediately ease the slack out of your line without pulling your crab off the bottom...rod tip 2-3 inches above water. Now you just want to balance your rod lift so that the split shot is just barely hanging on the bottom (see why you need calm conditions?). Provided that you've got that fine balance going within 30 seconds (sometimes as soon as it goes down and you can get your weight light on the skids) you should feel a nibble/trembling/small bumps or a slow soft pull that looks like the tide moving. IMMEDIATELY set the hook...ANYtime the line pulls everso slowly (like the tide)-IMMEDIATELY set the hook (and hang on) Don't wait for the strike that never comes. Most of the time you'll be too late to catch them because you're waiting to make sure you felt something and you think that they will bite again but your crab is gone by that time. Once you set the hook, pull them away from the pilings before you're cut off. Usually, there are 3-4 fish around every set of pilings that will bite so once you've caught a couple and the bite slows down (usually within 10 minutes), move to the next set of pilings. On a good calm day we'll use the trolling motor and hit all sides of the piling platform before moving on to the next set. Those are the basics....developing the "feel" for the "bite" is the key and that will take you some time to develop but a light rod with as little weight as you can get by with will telegraph the "bite" much easier. Peace brothers and I hope this helps someone.

freespool50 · 12-01-2009, 12:51 PM

sounds good. thanks!! i'll add one more to that for landlocked fellas.when fishing bob sikes, use a pyramid weight with about 10-15ft of leader. use your split shot n hook setup like vietvet recommended. drop the weight on the bridge feet and let the leader slink over the sides. since you wont be able to feel the 'bite' you'll have to watch the line close. now, someone go and try that because everytime i go, i forget to bring pyramid weights so i havent tested this technique out yet.

BWNN · 12-01-2009, 02:00 PM

Thanks for the info. I have caught a few in the past, but by accident. Great fish to eat & fight but have never had the finesse to target them. Again, thanks for the great post & hope you don't mind if i printed it out and added to log book! :bowdown

afishanado · 12-01-2009, 02:02 PM

Quote:

freespool50 (12/1/2009)sounds good. thanks!! i'll add one more to that for landlocked fellas.when fishing bob sikes, use a pyramid weight with about 10-15ft of leader. use your split shot n hook setup like vietvet recommended. drop the weight on the bridge feet and let the leader slink over the sides. since you wont be able to feel the 'bite' you'll have to watch the line close. now, someone go and try that because everytime i go, i forget to bring pyramid weights so i havent tested this technique out yet.

Now that's what I call thinking outside the box. :bowdown

Flounderpounder · 12-01-2009, 02:16 PM

Thank you! I've never really targeted them, but also caught a few "by accident". Good eats! I'll have to try it soon. Very nice of you to post the info! I think I met you once at Glover.

jaceboat · 12-01-2009, 02:56 PM

man that sounds complicated. my speargun technique is way easier spot,aim,fire.

but thanks for that maybe now i can catch one on a rod.

2chairs · 12-03-2009, 01:42 PM

Thanks for the instruction.

And thank you for your service.

choppedliver · 12-03-2009, 01:47 PM

do bait shops sell fidler crabs? Went to the bay and didnt see any running around on shore

choppedliver · 12-03-2009, 01:53 PM

sorry I should have read closer, I see that it says "most shops sell fidler crabs"

freespool50 · 12-03-2009, 02:24 PM

Quote:

jaceboat (12/1/2009)man that sounds complicated. my speargun technique is way easier spot,aim,fire.

but thanks for that maybe now i can catch one on a rod.

lol, thats funny. my son takes it the "speargun" level on land. he shoots them with a bow. its fun to watch. i havent tried it yet, but may give it a shot this season.

12-01-2009, 12:51 PM	#2
freespool50 Senior Member Grouper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: breezer Posts: 627	RE: SHEEPSHEAD 101 sounds good. thanks!! i'll add one more to that for landlocked fellas.when fishing bob sikes, use a pyramid weight with about 10-15ft of leader. use your split shot n hook setup like vietvet recommended. drop the weight on the bridge feet and let the leader slink over the sides. since you wont be able to feel the 'bite' you'll have to watch the line close. now, someone go and try that because everytime i go, i forget to bring pyramid weights so i havent tested this technique out yet. __________________ fred angeles pensacola imports mercedes benz repair specialist 725 W Garden St (corner of A and Garden) 791-6607 fred@pensacolaimports.com

12-01-2009, 02:00 PM	#3
BWNN Senior Member Trigger Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 283	RE: SHEEPSHEAD 101 Thanks for the info. I have caught a few in the past, but by accident. Great fish to eat & fight but have never had the finesse to target them. Again, thanks for the great post & hope you don't mind if i printed it out and added to log book! :bowdown __________________ 240 Bay Scout 250 Yamaha Crestview, FL

12-01-2009, 02:16 PM	#5
Flounderpounder Senior Member Sailfish Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Garcon Point Posts: 1,301	RE: SHEEPSHEAD 101 Thank you! I've never really targeted them, but also caught a few "by accident". Good eats! I'll have to try it soon. Very nice of you to post the info! I think I met you once at Glover.

12-01-2009, 02:56 PM	#6
jaceboat Senior Member Trigger Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 386	RE: SHEEPSHEAD 101 man that sounds complicated. my speargun technique is way easier spot,aim,fire. but thanks for that maybe now i can catch one on a rod.

12-03-2009, 01:42 PM	#7
2chairs Junior Member Cigar Minnow Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Richmond, Ky Posts: 20	RE: SHEEPSHEAD 101 Thanks for the instruction. And thank you for your service.

12-01-2009, 12:10 PM	#1
vietvet Member Ruby Red Lip Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 80	SHEEPSHEAD 101 Thought I would post this info on my 30+ years experience with fishing year 'round for sheepshead since it came up on one of the recent inshore reports: I wrote a long detailed "how to" on the sheepshead fishin on the old forum...I can't find it so I'll do it again. Here's the basics: Although this technique will work on any area bridges/structures, I mainly fish I-10 and R/R trestle over Escambia bay because it is somewhat sheltered and shallow (6-8 feet..it's harder to catch them when it's real deep (too much slack and give in the line))...you want to go when it's relatively smooth which most of the time is early in the day before the wind gets up. If it's too choppy, you might as well stay home cause you can't feel them bite and you'll be moving your bait too much. Fiddler crabs are best although live shrimp work but you'll pick up more trash fish (most all local bait shops carry Fiddlers). Need a moving tide, either in or out...dead low or high is no good. Use #1 J hook (or a little smaller they've got a small mouth) and 15-20# mono (or higher strength floro-carbon)with 1 or 2 split shot (about 4 inches from the hook) and 6-8 foot light action rod (back in the day, we used FW bream cane poles and fly rods), remember, just enough weight to keep the crab on the bottom....when it's calm, use 1 lead unless the tide is ripping or it gets choppy. If you need more than 2 split shot you're probably at the margin of this technique. The point is you want your crab to sink to the bottom and stay in one position and very light on the bottom...too much weight is no good and don't move your bait around....stay in one place on the bottom. Fish close to the pilings, closer is better. If the sheephead are there, they see your crab sinking and will "bite" within 30 seconds or so. If you don't feel anything after about 2 minutes, reposition your bait around the pilings. OK, here's the deal: sheepshead are known as bait stealers because they don't bite like a normal fish with a strike, they gently suck and crush that crab and you won't even know it until it's too late. Juveniles will "bite" more aggressive cause I think they're in a hurry to get it before the big ones so you'll probably feel them easier than a larger, wiser adult. Looks like I'm back into a pretty detailed description but this is specialized fishing so I have to get pretty indepth to give you at least a fightin chance to catch some. You want to gauge the wind/tide drift and anchor so that your boat is about 6-8 feet from the pilings (depends on rod length) you basically want to fish almost straight down with your rod tip about 2-3 inches from the water. Once you're anchored, get a fiddler a hook him through the bottom flap but not enough to come through the carapace (top shell)...kinda hide the hook. He should be active and extending his legs (they won't touch a dead crab so change as soon as your crab dies, slows down or is listless....that's why you need at least 4 dozen to start with). OK, now free line your crab all the way to the bottom as fast as it will sink (close to the pilings) and once it touches, immediately ease the slack out of your line without pulling your crab off the bottom...rod tip 2-3 inches above water. Now you just want to balance your rod lift so that the split shot is just barely hanging on the bottom (see why you need calm conditions?). Provided that you've got that fine balance going within 30 seconds (sometimes as soon as it goes down and you can get your weight light on the skids) you should feel a nibble/trembling/small bumps or a slow soft pull that looks like the tide moving. IMMEDIATELY set the hook...ANYtime the line pulls everso slowly (like the tide)-IMMEDIATELY set the hook (and hang on) Don't wait for the strike that never comes. Most of the time you'll be too late to catch them because you're waiting to make sure you felt something and you think that they will bite again but your crab is gone by that time. Once you set the hook, pull them away from the pilings before you're cut off. Usually, there are 3-4 fish around every set of pilings that will bite so once you've caught a couple and the bite slows down (usually within 10 minutes), move to the next set of pilings. On a good calm day we'll use the trolling motor and hit all sides of the piling platform before moving on to the next set. Those are the basics....developing the "feel" for the "bite" is the key and that will take you some time to develop but a light rod with as little weight as you can get by with will telegraph the "bite" much easier. Peace brothers and I hope this helps someone.

12-03-2009, 01:47 PM	#8
choppedliver Senior Member Sailfish Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 2,393	RE: SHEEPSHEAD 101 do bait shops sell fidler crabs? Went to the bay and didnt see any running around on shore

12-03-2009, 01:53 PM	#9
choppedliver Senior Member Sailfish Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 2,393	RE: SHEEPSHEAD 101 sorry I should have read closer, I see that it says "most shops sell fidler crabs"

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