captken

<SPAN class=postbody>Here are a few pics of a super simple and cheap anchoring system. My "Ho" made rudder is shown in its up position. I'm calling this the "Zinger" anchor.
1. Zinger-up


2.Zinger line attachment. I used a reverse Snell Knot in 400# mono. I coated the mono with J-B Weld for protection from rocks and shell.
Unfortunately the mono doesn't show up well in the low light condition this evening.


3. Zinger completely up for travel.


4.Zinger down. Staked out and fishing.


I installed a very small nylon cleat right beside my left leg. I made a loop in the 400# mono using a leader sleeve at the point the Zinger is completely up and well above the bottom of the yak. It shouldn't hang on anything since it is a couple of inches above the keel.

I attached the end of the mono through the hollow base cleat at a point the Zinger is all the way extended. It can't fall through the mount and get lost.

Very simple project. I paid $0.40/screw for 8 screws ---total $3.20
$1.80 for 1 small cleat 1.80
Total $5.00
The rest of the components were in my shop--mostly scrap.

<SPAN class=postbody>The strange looking, molded in carrying handles on the Emotion MoJo make some modifications real easy. I could add another "Zinger" to the bow if I were so inclined. After three years of hard usemy MoJo has a lot of scratches and maybe more filled in screw holes than any other yak in creation but it is my "Project in progress." I'll keep drilling and screwing until there is no place left to drill holes. Oh yeah, it has never leaked a drop. I'm still looking at the Mini-X for my next yak but I'll bet it isn't as tough as the MoJo.

Gonna see how it works tomorrow, weather permitting.<SPAN class=postbody>

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Captken
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captken

Weather radar shows a huge area of rain extending at least 50 miles offshore here. We had a heavy rain squall while I was eating breakfast with quite a bit of wind. Looks like I am gonna get wet but I am going to try this gizmo out.

Raining again---maybe later.

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Orion45

Ingenious idea. Eagerly awaiting results of trial run. Keep us posted.

P.S. Are you going to patent the design?

captken

I gave it a test run this afternoon. It worked just like I expected it would.

You absolutely <U>"MUST</U>" stop all forward motion before droping the anchor. Actually, that is just good common sense. There would be a tremendous amount of stress on the bracket if you tried to use it to stop forward momentum.

I may make a mold to cast a "generic" bracket to hold both anchor and rudder. I do not expect it would be a huge project nor one that costs a huge amount. Syntactic foam casting is not rocket science nor is simple mold building.

Finding the untapered fiberglass rod at a reasonable price must be the first order of business.

If kayaks had exploded on the scene along with high fuel prices about 30 years ago, I would be a rich man now because I would have tapped into the yak market with some much needed innovations. I'd sure like to get something going to make a few bucks.

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Captken
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captken

Patents are too expensive and often easily circumvented. Been there, done that!

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Captken
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cape horn 24

I'm not sure what type of fiberglass non tapered pole you are looking for or how much $$$but have you tried a pole spear for you anchor. They are5-6' long and they are not tappered don't know if the dia. is big enough.

BA

captken

The rod diameter is ~5/8". The stand offs used on power lines would be perfect. Somebody makes yak stake out poles that would work just fine but, at $69 a pop, I couldn't make sell them with my product.

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Captken
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