redlegs

<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'">Symptom: Raymarine "C" series system (specifically the DMS 300), "resets" at odd times. This "seems" to occur when engine power is cut back (and not that much of a speed drop: dropping from 15mph to 5mph can cause it), or one engine stalls. A good example would be chopping power back as one arrives at a site. It seems to take several minutes or more for the signal/data to return on the monitor. Keep in mind we are not talking dropping back from 30 kph and losing it.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'"><o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'">What we have checked, checked firmware version on DSM, have checked all connections for corrosion (not or little present), "re-attached" shielding on main power cable.<o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'"><o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'">At this point we think that there is a power spike/drop issue. Keep in mind that this is a "semi-educated" guess based on the fact that most of the rigs electronics (C80, DSM, panel options, trim switches, etc) are on one single power line, and a single bus.<o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'"><o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'">What we are considering doing as a resolve, is to run another power line and install a second bus to power the DSM, display and fish finder on a separate "line" and bus. This would allow for the future expansion of a back-up FF and GPS system as well.<o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'"><o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'">Any comments/advice/info is appreciated.<o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'"><o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'">We are also trying to "figure out" what size wire we need to run to support the existing C80 system and to support a future FF/GPS system something like a Humminbird Side Image combo (9xx series, just as an example). Input on proper size is appreciated as well. The actual length of wire we will run is 25ft (one way, 50ft round trip. So far, our best guess is AWG 10 (shielded, marine grade).<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'"><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'">/r

1923

I would split my screen to ff and temp &amp; nav. or whatever combo shows sonar and voltage and keep an eye on volts. You need a dedicated line for GPS and FF for many reasons least of which is so that it doesn't reset when you crank the motor. Also keep an eye on the DSM indicator light, I know there is one on the DSM 25, if it blinks anything but green look at the manual for the codes on what pattern it is flashing.

I have had problems with Raymarine and these are of the suggestions I've gotten.

I would also crank the motor and slowly raise RPMs and see at what speed the alt. starts putting out 13-13.8 volts. If your batteries are weak it might also be a factor.

I hope you get everything resolved.

Speckulator

Check ground first. Then check voltage on electronics battery.If ok, send unit(dsm300)back to Raymarine. Have em check board inside. Where did ya buy it?

George

redlegs

<P style="BACKGROUND: white"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">1923:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o><P style="BACKGROUND: white"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">This one has a DSM 300 on it, and it does have an indicator light. It's om our list to do on next trip out. Is just a slight pain pulling it out and putting it where we can eyeball it in a hurry when losees the FF signal. Hadn't considered that the batteries may be causing the spike/drop. We do charge all three (two main, one house) every time prior to heading out, but haven?t "load tested" them.<o></o><P style="BACKGROUND: white"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Speckulator:<o></o><P style="BACKGROUND: white"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Ground is good and has been checked as well as all other connections in the path for corrosion. We also took the opportunity to apply electronic corrosion prevention on them as well. No joy there. The boat is an 06 Grady Journey. As part of the package, the electronics (C80 system, radar, and unrelated fishing enhancements) were installed by Marinemax, Ft Walton. As well as the custom console work needed to get the C80 dash mounted into the crappy Grady console. They basically ran all deck/console electronics off one line/bus, and hard top level electronics (radio, radar, etc).<o></o><P style="BACKGROUND: white"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #1f5080; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">This is what has lead us to the conclusion of rigging another dedicated power line and bus just for console electronics. Just unsure of the AWG wire size necessary to power what we have and what we intend on installing in the near future. Have done some initial math, hence the AWG 10 number.<o></o>



/r

off route II

i've got a C 120 on my everglades and it is doing the same thing. tony blanton installed it and he is looking into what is wrong.

redlegs

I know there's at least one knowledge base article on raymarie referencing the firmware version of the DSM. Has to be 2.24 or higher. They go on the say that earlier versions of the DSM firmare (something like shipped before oct 03) can cause the same issue. We checked ours via console menu and it's up to date. Just passing on what we already have done.

Would be great if Tony finds a cure and shares it...

/r

BBob

<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">Well it appears I may be in the same "boat" as ya'll....<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">Scenario ? I generally fish the ?Yellow Gravel? area of the Gulf. When bottom bumping we shut off the engines and deploy a sea anchor and drift fish. I leave the electronics on while drifting. When we decide to move and fire the engines up the monitors will momentarily shut off, and then re-energize. The display then flashes a warning that the DSM has no data, and that the chart shows a warning of position lost. When the E-80 reacquires the NEMA 0183 signal from the GPS and the DMS-300 reacquires the transducer signal the alarms can be cleared. <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">I believe the problems is in how the electronics are wired. Everything from the same power feed. If anybody finds the cure pass it on. tks. BBob<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">

Harry Brosofsky

The answer isthree fold. First, run bigger wire from the house battery to the electronics and ONLY put electronics/helm itemson that circuit (not the motors, trim tabs, etc). I run a 2/0 from the house switch to the helm for helm power.

Second, get bigger batteries with more reserve capacity. The larger batteries will absorb bigger spkies. I highly recommend Odyssey PC2150 batteries, which can now be found at Sears under the DieHard logo model PM-1 for less than you can find the PC2150.

Finally, make sure that you have isolated the house batteries from the start batteries and that the house batteries are charged (through the isloator) whenever the engines are running. I run a BEM 717 battery cluster with dual sense VSRs. These allow the engines to charge the house without risking draining the start batteries, and they also allow a charger to be used to charge both the house and start batteries.

Harry

redlegs

<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Promised to follow-up. Wanted to make sure what we have done, had some merit, looks like it is fixed. Here's the details: We have made some headway with this problem.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial">After reviewing the Yamaha F150 manual we realized that the F150?s rectifier regulator has a built in isolator. All you need to hook up another isolated battery is the optional isolator lead P/N 68F-81949-00. I found one at Emerald coast Marine.<o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial">We installed a third battery (we have twin 150?s), hooked up the charging lead, and ran a AWG #8 wire directly from the + battery terminal through a 30 amp toggle circuit breaker (toggle type so we could turn the circuit on and off alongside the main battery switches). We ran the #8 wire from the circuit breaker to a newly installed separate fuse block up under the instrument panel and hooked the GPS and sounder to the new fuse block. The ground was run directly from the fuse panel to the negative battery terminal using the same size wire. This gave us a completely isolated circuit for the GPS and sounder and after a couple of fishing trips we have had no ?dropouts? and the Raymarine system worked as advertised.<o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o></o><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Since we have applied the above ?fixes?, we haven?t had the depth finder ?drop out? once during times (since the install) we?ve taken it out in varying sea conditions. Not sure that this would fix the ?drop out? that someone mentioned earlier when they crank up or not, however, it appears that it has fixed our issue. We no longer lose the signal when chopping speed, or any other random time. <o></o>

The Maintenance Shoppe

8 gage wire minimum. This is a common problem that we see alot.

If you connect a voltmeter to your power bus you will see it happen on the volt meter.

When your power bus voltage drops to 10.2 volts you will see the alarms, below that they will shut off.

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