Play'N Hooky

Crap!!! Luckily mine ain't nowhere near that bad.

Actually, after scrubbing them off with somea scouring pad, it turns out that some of the areas that I thought werecorrosion were actually "mineral" deposits that, once removed, exposed solid un-affected metal underneath. These deposits must have been calcium based because the vinegar wash that Sealark suggested went to town on them.

There was only one spot about the size of a dime on the port tank that actually had pitting and that was only about 1/16" deep on 1/4" thick aluminium. I like the rhino lining idea unless there is a good reason not to go that route.

Thanks again for ya'lls help.

johnsonbeachbum

Yea the Rhino lining is not cheap.

You could do the hillbilly redneck thing and smear the tank with some really sticky, thick, high temp grease or even spray it with tar that has been mixed with gasoline in order to spray it. The gasoline will evaporate and leave a tar skin behind.

It will smell for a few weeks but the tank will no longer corrode or accumulate mineral deposits.

X-Shark

I see a LOT of stuff recommended here that is out to lunch.



Fiberglassing a tank is WRONG! The original tank in my boat had that done. Before I bought the boat. I literally ripped the glass off with gloved hands.



Installing a mat under the tank will make the problem worse. All tanks sweat in a bilge and thus is how moisture gets into your fuel also. It's the change in temp's that do it.



The way to stop corrosion on a tank is to coat it. You don't need to spend the money for Rino Lining. But you sure don't want any half ass greased up tank.



The standard has become Coal Tar epoxy coating. Coal Tar epoxy has been used in the offshore drilling industry for a Loooooog time and proven itself VERY effective.



In this link you ill find pixs of a new tank that was coated as well as pix's of a old tank that had no sign of leaking, until the tank was pulled.



This customer just wanted to replace all the fuel hoses. I insisted that with the tank exposed this far that is was coming out of the boat for a FULL inspection. As you can see it was a good move.



Nothing wrong with a foamed in tank, as long as it's coated to prevent any moistue for contacting it. It's the noncoated tanks [the way the factory installes them] that are the problem. By the way the proper foam to use when reinstalling a tank is 4lb density. NOT 2lb density.





http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...06&whichpage=1

sealark

[quote]X-Shark (1/2/2009)I see a LOT of stuff recommended here that is out to lunch.

Fiberglassing a tank is WRONG! The original tank in my boat had that done. Before I bought the boat. I literally ripped the glass off with gloved hands.

If you will note in my fiberglass recommendation I said cover the COMPLETE tank. If you do that it will work as in effect you have a sealed tank. Like I posted it worked for many years for me.

X-Shark

I heard you loud and clear Sealark. Mine was done the same way with polyester resign and mat. Again I cut it in a spot with a razor knife and ripped it off with gloved hands.



Now with your tank buried again. How do you know it's alright? I mean it's buried.



Be careful what you trust your life to. Just because you don't smell fuel, doesn't mean much to me.



Example: No fuel was smelled from this tank, but yet you can see where it was leaking.





















New tank installed with a Coal Tar epoxy coating.