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#1 |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Andalusia, Alabama
Posts: 1,009
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This last week I removed the aluminium fuel tanks from my project boat (31' Silverton) in order to give me some more room to work in the forward compartment and to inspect/clean them out. I noticed on the bottoms of the tanks that there were a couple of small spots that were pitted to the point that it didn't look like it would be long before they would break-through. I was considering going over these with JB Weld before I put them back in and was wondering if that would be effective or if I should use something else.
Also, the tanks sitstrapped tobenches in the compartment so they are exposed on all sides except the bottom. I've noticed that when they are full they sweat pretty bad and was wondering if I shouldn't put some type of matting underneath them to prevent moisture build-up. Thanks for any advice. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Gulf Breeze Florida, onthe canal!!
Posts: 1,184
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Don't try to epoxy those tanks. You are trying to bond to an already oxidized surface and it will pop out when you are in rough seas and the fuel is sloshing around. Rince it out with degreaser and water and bring it to me of any other of the welder/fab guys here on the forum. The whole bottom can be replaced if it needs to be and alot cheaper than a new tank or blown up boat from fuel leaks at sea and under way.:usaflag
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Tim Scallan Breeze Fabricators Inc. 4220 Gulf Breeze Parkway Highway 98 Gulf Breeze Fl. 32563 850 554 6172/934 8609 BreezeFabricators.com |
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#3 |
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Neptune calls me "Daddy"
Blue Marlin
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,642
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On another forum I read,pitting isa common problem, especially on older boats that were held in place with foam.The commonly held solutionisto fiberglass the entire tank to waterproof it after JB Weld on the pitted area.
Jim
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GO GATORS!!! |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Sailfish
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pensacola, Sherman Cove Marina
Posts: 2,142
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JB weld will nor work because the Aluminum will expand and contract at a different rate then the JB weld and seperate. One way is if you have the room is to first clean the entire tank and wipe it with viniger and then cover the entire tank with fiberglass. If there is a leak first have it welded and then fiberglass it. I did this on a Aluminum tank in a 17' Aquasport and it lasted at least for the 5 more years I owned it.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Andalusia, Alabama
Posts: 1,009
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Sounds like I definitly need to check into having them welded.
As far as putting anything under them, upon reflection, I guess that since they have beenin the boat or 23 years and the limited amount of pitting that I'm seeing now isall that has occurred over that period, I'll probably just put them back in the way they were installed by the mfgr.Apart from the bottoms the rest of the tanks are in great shape, just dirty from 23 years of dust and grime. Thanks for ya'll help. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Sailfish
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,882
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Given what is at stake with a failure of a patch there is only one course of action to take and it has already been mentioned.
I am one of those people that can NEVER pull off a shortcut without having it come back and bite me in the butt at a later time. if this was my project and I knew that the tank was compromised as describedand chose to smear bondo / jb weld/ fiberglass /undrecoaring or any other quick fix that sounded like it will prevent what I already know is gonna happen anyway, I wound just have to adjust My priorities to do the long term fix rather than have the unexpected shutdown thenite before the big fishing event or cruise of a lifetime or try to explain away the "I think I smell gas feeling" that will come up at some point in the future. ( my luck would have it start leaking abought the time I decide to sell it and I would be looking at tearing the tank out and doing all of this in order to make the boat sellable) Hopefully whatever you decide will work out. Good luck EDIT///Slow typing and eating a sandwich strikes again/ sounds like you have everything under control |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Grouper
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Gulf Breeze Fl
Posts: 966
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I would go with a new tank. Call Perry Florida to get a price. VERY reasonable.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Sailfish
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,683
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I bet the bad spots are right were the tank is touching something, like the straps. Or a dissimular metal is touching those spots?
After you have it repaired, I would entertain having the entire tank Rhino lined on the outside. It will isolate contact with everything that might cause more bad spots or wear spotsincluding moisture from sweating. And it will be a little bit insulated and corrosion will be less likely too. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Sailfish
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cantonment
Posts: 2,117
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My definition of a BAD gas tank.
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18' Sea Pro / 115hp Johnson 140 Heritage / Powered by me |
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#10 |
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Neptune calls me "Daddy"
Blue Marlin
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,642
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I looked into having a 75 gallon tank Rhinolined... it was almost as much as a new tank. I even told them they could hang on to the tank for a couple weeks and just use "leftover" stuff on it as they finished up a job. No dice. Maybe if you know somebody who worked there it'd be cheaper.
I'd probably fiberglass at least the bottom of the tank if it showed pitting. Couldn't hurt. Jim
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