Deeplines

Don't know if you have started painting or not but this is what I have learned from experience doing it 1st hand and without any knowledge.

IT ONLY MAKES SENSE TO GO AWLGRIP.....

WHY?

1st of all it is easier to sand only onceGREAT, then sand between each coat. Then when you start looking at two different colors then you are talking even MORE.

TAKE THE TIME AND SAND IT AND PREP IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME AND GO WITH ALWGRIP AND SPRAY PAINT IT.

I'm happy with my results but when you spend THAT MUCH time and PREP into something you will change your mind on how you want it to look.

Your boat may not have been as bad as mine to start with but I have 3 coats of white on mine and it looks pretty smooth but will take 2 more to make it look professional. Didn't care for that at 1st but when you put your heart and soul into it you want it to look the BEST.

You can't see any flaws in it from 10' maybe even 5' away but DAMN, a month working on the boat and guessing at the weax and all that you start to take a little pride in it. SOmething I didn't think would happen. :doh

I mean My boat don't even have motors on it but after doing all that work I wanted it to look better and better as each coat went on the boat. Best bet is to PREP IT RIGH THE 1st Time, even if it takes 2 weeks, and spray paint it with awlgrip.

The time saved by sanding between coats will make the extra money you have to pay for the awlgrip worth it.

I should have pixs of the before and after project up with a month. I said 2 weeks before but you see where I am at. LOL.....

I have one more coat of red to put on and black wash the bottom of the boat and she will be ready. :bowdown:bowdown

X-Shark

Never mind the fact that a single stage paint will never look near as good or hold up for 10yrs like Awlgrip or Imron will.



It looks fine from my porch 50ft away.

Rodznreelz

I painted my boat with Diamont base coat/clear coat, the sametype paintthat the boat was painted with from the factory (PPG). Base/clear is your typical automotive paint. The only disadvantage is that you cannot leave the boat in the water for over 36 hours, the paint will start to "blister" (bubbles up and peels). Also, base/clear takes a long time to cure, or at least cure enough to become rigid. I waited a month to set mine back on the trailer. My boat turned out really nice though.

The reason it turned out so well was the amount of prep that we did in order to get it ready to paint. We primed and wet sanded the whole boat. It takes a lot of time, but it is well worth the result. Good luck.

Ryan

X-Shark

He's talking about the bottom of the hull being painted and in full contact with water ALL the time.



Awlgrip says not to do it below the waterline also, but you can keep it in the water for no more than a week with no problems.



A single stage paint below the waterline, forget it. It will bubble in a couple of day's. That stuff is nothing more than a Glorified Alkyd Enamel. [Brightsides & Easypoxy]

bamafan

anyone tried interlux perfection?

X-Shark

Plenty of guy's on Classic Mako have used it. It's a heck of a lot better than a single component paint.





There are shop's that will also paint the base color in regular Awlgrip and clearcoat in Imron.



The advantage is that the Imron can be color sanded and buffed. Awlgrip says NOT to buff or color sand. I can tell you that if you do it will dull the finish.